Type: TR, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,580 total · 23/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 2, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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This route ascends the lower overhung roof to the left of the chimney in the main bouldering area. It is located about 15 feet left of the main chimney. Begin the climb by starting up the face just on the left side of the roof, and then pull your way up the main section of the overhang. The top of the rock is off until you get to the basketball- like jug to the middle-right of the roof.

There is a prominent sidepull about 10 feet off the ground, and the crux is getting a hand pulling from this sidepull to the basketball jug on the top.

Be careful not to hit the lower section of the rock if you bail in the crux, as this slabby first five feet twisted my ankle on one attempt of this route.


A crashpad is nice, 3 would be great.


V1 tops...sorry, but this route is nowhere NEAR V4. I first did this route in 1987, and I couldn't yet lead 5.10. For a V4 on I-Rock, think The Bubble, or Borghoff's Pinch....those are closer. Nov 21, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
  5.11 V2
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
  5.11 V2
I think the person above is thinking of the overhung roof problem that moves left. If you go straight up the overhung roof, this is a comitting balancy move 9 or so feet off the ground. I think it's a V4. leave a comment if you agree / disagree. Nov 21, 2002
(The above AC comment is from me...)

Right - guilty as charged. I was, in fact, thinking of the left variation. I misunderstood the description.

The straight through problem is definitely harder, and may be ... maybe ... V4, though (and there are, of course, several variations here) I think the easiest version is probably more like V3. But, hey, that's splitting hairs, and I've always been terrible at rating routes. The important thing is that this is a really fun problem that requires good body tension and some faith on the last hard move!

That said, I'd like to comment on the general comment left in the I-rock opening page re: rating routes "too easy" by the oldtimers. Certainly, once you have a problem/route dialed, its easier to you. But, in general (like grades in college these days), there is a trend of grade inflation, perhaps especially in the bouldering V-scale. Talk to Vermin about this -- not only does he hate the ratings at all, but he definitely feels they're sliced too thin. Of course, this is just his opinion, and its obviously not an exact science. But, I would say the trend these days is *definitely* to overrate problems, not sandbag them. Hey, who doesn't like to know they can crank V5, or V10, or 5.12 or whatever?!?Come climb in Eldorado Canyon for a different perspective on what 5.10 feels like! I've seen Rifle-rats struggle on 5.10d in Eldo...

And, for what its worth, I do think the flake traverse is around V1 or so for those with reach, a tad harder for those with shorter arms. No move on it is harder than 10+ or so. IMHO.

Enough for now-...the coward Nov 22, 2002
Why do people always set Eldo as the gold standard for ratings? Scary trad routes have nothing to do with sport climbs or bouldering. They're simply different sports.

The trend is not to inflate routes today; it's just that there are a lot of strong climbers now. v9 and 5.13 are relatively easier today, because more people are doing them - there is less of a mental barrier. In this sense, it's like Eldo - all mental.

I'm not just talking shit here. Eldo is one of my favorite places in the world, but the fact is, the only reason the Bombay pitch on the Edge, for instance, feels hard is because of that shitty pin, not because the moves are harder than a route of the same grade elsewhere. Sep 14, 2003
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
  5.11 V2
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
  5.11 V2
At least it's Eldo, and not Yosemite in my opinion! Yosemite is like Eldo, but with all the feet smoothed out from 30 years of climbing. A 5.10 trad route is absolutely nothing like a 5.10 sport route placement placement placement...

My thoughts... Sep 15, 2003
If you are 6' or taller, this is not V4. and yes im not talking about the 5.8 route to the left. The sidepull is better than you think and with feet high its one lunge to that jug. V2 ish sounds about right, but old guides call it a 5.10 Dec 8, 2004
timothyrgriffen Griffen  
  V3 PG13
The holds are really good, the whole grade is just nerves May 29, 2010
Victor K
Denver, CO
Victor K   Denver, CO
There are tope rope anchors here as well, so actual cowards like myself can get busy. Jul 6, 2011
San Diego, CA
  V3+ PG13
A.Javi.Gecko   San Diego, CA
  V3+ PG13
There are 3 versions of this climb that I know of...

The original uses a small right-hand side pull that goes at about V3+. It feels harder at first but thats only because its so high up.

There's also a V3-/V2+ version that involves a short dyno (or deadpoint if you're tall) from the two awesome crimps just before the sidepull up to the jug at the top. Don't eff up though or you'll fall onto the slab to the right (I've seen many near-misses when friends jump too hard).

Finally, there is C+, the big dyno from the jug-match about half way up the climb (where it changes from slab to overhung) all the way to the big hold at the top. It goes at about V6. I'm 5'10" and it really is a big jump, but with 3 pads and 2 spotters its probably safer than the shorter dyno because you go straight up rather than out right.

That's my two cents. Just remember that this climb is all mental but with adequate spotting/pads its quite safe-- save for the metal pole that sticks out of the ground a bit behind the landing. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHY THIS HAZARD IS IN THE PIT? My only guess would be to tie up your dog. Jul 28, 2012
Brandon Bateman
Montrose, CA
  V2- PG13
Brandon Bateman   Montrose, CA
  V2- PG13
This is one of the most fun routes at Indian Rock. Ive seen and done it with two different betas. One (using the right hand side-pull) and Two (Using a reachy left hand sloper) both moves coming after you reach the mini-jug. I would rate them V2 V1 respectively. Extremely fun and rewarding climb! Jan 21, 2013
  V3-4 R
  V3-4 R
Very fun if you eliminate the jugs and go up the center on the sidepull Feb 2, 2013