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Routes in Split Tower

Dark Side of the Moon T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Half Moon T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moon Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moon Walk (Waning) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Moon TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 108 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on May 9, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Moon Face is the face on the northeast portion of Split Tower. Climb the face using delicate moves to get off the ground. Throw some pro in the crack and continue higher to easier terrain.

Protection

Small to medium stoppers or cams

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Totally agree on your comment hear Doug. It felt solid 5.8 on the lead not touching any feet or hands over to the right! This is a really fun little lead and the gear is good and obvious. To bad it's so short....If you try to lead the block on the top straight on.... you are in for a big surprise as Pete says. Nov 7, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.8 PG13
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.8 PG13
Avoiding the right-hand corner makes this a bit harder.

The first piece of pro is a small/micro cam. I'd call this lead PG because of the difficulty placing gear from not-enough-crimps. However the gear is well enough spaced, and bomber, and the crux isn't too far from the ground. Aug 8, 2016
Regarding the finish of Moon Face: There is a large block that sits atop the Split Towers formation. When leading Moon Face one might consider finishing the climb up the center of the block. Your "pro" will be at your feet and it will feel harder and be a bit more committing than the 5.7 grade for the climb. Highly recommend it. Jan 10, 2005
I agree, the bottom couple moves are pretty delicate. It's a fun route to lead--too bad it's not 60ft longer! Oct 6, 2003