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Routes in Kid Rock

Kid, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Landlord, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Renter, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Kurt Smith and Ken Ariza, 1984
Page Views: 574 total · 4/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Nov 3, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Make a hard move past the first bolt and continue up a long easy runout to the third bolt. Climb up to a steep headwall, clip the fourth bolt, and make a tricky step around to the right (5.8 R). Carefully climb up and left to the fifth bolt; a fall before clipping this bolt would be very serious.

Continue to the anchor and lower (100') to the ground with a 60m rope.

This is a fun route to do before or after Walk on the Wild Side.

Location

The Kid climbs the left side of the detached slab down and right from the start of Walk on the Wild Side.

Protection

Five bolts to a two-bolt anchor (all 3/8"). The 5.10a move at the first bolt is well protected, but there is a long runout on easy climbing between the second and third bolts, and a runout 5.8 move between the fourth and fifth bolts.

The route is about 100' long; you need a 60m rope to lower.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.10a R
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a R
A decent route to do when in the area, but as noted a fall at certain points on this route would not be a good idea.

Please note - 60 meter rope mandatory for lowering! There has already been one accident on this route due to lowering with a rope that was too short.

All the bolts have been replaced and are 3/8" with metal hardware at the anchors. Nov 19, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a R
Bolt 5 is doubled for a shorter rap. May 27, 2007
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.10a R
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.10a R
I was too impatient for the "waiting line" for WOTWS and decided to do this. The runout got me 8 weeks in leg cast! :P So, make that 2 accidents Chris! HA! Oct 1, 2007

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