Type: Sport, Aid, 50 ft
FA: John Mireles, 1991
Page Views: 1,386 total · 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Hidden in this remote-feeling but quite accessible area of the Park is this somewhat controversial sport route high atop a rubble pile.

Originally done from a pile of rocks at the start to bypass the undercut start but pulling on the 1st bolt achieves the same result. Once on the rock proper thin and continuous edges lead up an ever-steeping face which curls at the top like a breaking wave.

  • The start might be free climbable without the stacked blocks at around 5.13+/5.14 or so.


Straight up the center of the south face and just right of the classic Dictators of Anarchy (aka Skinhead Arete) (5.12c).


6 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")


Adam Stackhouse    
The first four bolts are a series of deadpoints on decent holds (but as Chris mentioned bad feet). The technical crux on this power-endurance route comes next with a long pull off of thin holds. The finale is a dyno at the route's steepest point. Mireles compared this route to another route of his, Maximum Ghetto in Malibu, stating NWO is harder. Apr 17, 2006
C Miller
  5.13b A0
C Miller   CA  
  5.13b A0
The 2nd bolt is currently smashed flat and cannot be clipped, so either replace the hanger or bring a long stick clip. Apr 17, 2006
I've redpointed Maximum Ghello at Malibu, but could not even get my feet off the ground on this one! Aug 13, 2009
Second bolt has a recent looking sling through the flattened hanger. Jan 29, 2011
I do not know where those decent holds are. I figured i could climb to the third bolt...then I am lost. I was able to high-step the third bolt by using a shoulder length sling, and could still not find decent enough holds to move off of. Is it possible whoever smashed the second bolt smashed holds? Mar 14, 2011
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Hmmm, yeah... Here's my story. Max Ghetto, which is fairly nasty and hard with small sharp holds, is a sidewalk compared to this thing so it is possible that the holds at the beginning were knocked off.

I tried this route once during the 90s with Jean Paul Finne who had just done the second ascent of Just Do It. He could not start either. Cos later said Mireles started off a stack of cheater stones, something he'd failed to mention to me when he told me about the route. From there, well, it was hard and devious and the holds all seemed a bit friable. Finne was not impressed. If they are gone at least it means someone else has tried it but there wasn't much there to start with so maybe they've always been gone. More weird stuff is that Mireles had told me there was a crux dyno at the end, which was a move we found quite trivial, especially compared to the nightmare of the first few bolts. Mireles was strong, for sure, but after getting on this and hearing Cos's account and the weird bolt smashing (rumor was John "stole" this line from Leavitt who was pissed) we were suspicious about the entire endeavor. Chopped, embelished, or whatever it's a shame because the actual line is stunning, especially for Josh. Apr 5, 2011
Adam Stackhouse    
Mike Lechlinsky and Tom Gilge did the second ascent. Jan 25, 2016