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Routes in Cap Rock - Southeast Face

Catch A Falling Car T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Catch A Falling Star T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gram Theft Parsons TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nobody Walks In LA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nobody Walks Their Car in LA TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tumbling Dice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Herb Laeger and Dennis Knuckles, March 1978
Page Views: 3,377 total, 17/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This fun pitch is on the sunny south side of Cap Rock. Climb an obvious right angling crack until it peters out, then make a 5.8 face move past a bolt to the top. This route is deservedly popular and odds are you will find a gang of people here.

Protection

Gear to 2", one bolt.
Brian Chastain  
  5.8
Did this a while back, but I was commenting on Slim Pickings and decided to mention I thought this was a great route too. Straight forward and fun. Jan 14, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.8
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.8
In reply to Joseph's post about being height dependent..

I'm about 5'5 and I don't think it was height dependent at all. Really good smears and foot holds on this route. I think I only used up to .75 C4 on this route and 2 solid nut placements. Crux for me was right before the anchors Dec 26, 2012
Canon
 
Canon  
 
Great climb. Led it with all cam placements under 2", would probably take tri-cams or nuts. Good photo ops. Lots of traversing. Jan 15, 2012
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.8
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.8
The traverse might be height dependent, as a taller person might have an easier time reaching the good footholds. Stellar route, and not as difficult as I was expecting for my first jTree 5.8 lead. This seemed at least a number grade easier than Buissonier! Maybe the crux here was the face moves. Apr 19, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8
I thought this was one of the best climbs on my trip; also did Fun Stuff and Double Cross by way of comparison. Correctly graded at 5.8. Mar 11, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.8
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.8
Might mention in the description that the top anchor is two bolts but not a rappel anchor. The git off is to downclimb off on the backside and then climber's left around to the front. Dec 1, 2008
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
YEs I agree tricams worked great for me. Very fun route to do at sunset. Feb 27, 2008
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I'll give it two, Woody! Sep 29, 2006
Taryn
San Diego, CA
  5.8
Taryn   San Diego, CA
  5.8
Bring tri-cams on lead....seriously! For real. Come on...you know you want to. Feb 17, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.8+
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8+
This is a fun traversing route starting out with a few feet of face then to the crack and then to face. Continuing out and up from the finish bolt seemed a bit harder than continuing right to a second bolt then up. The crack can be a bit shallow in its acceptance of pro. Jan 28, 2006
Gear can be a bit trick for the beginning leader. But the easy stances make ample opportunity to fiddle around and get the pro set right! Great climb to learn how to slot pro in behind features. Jan 27, 2004
A great route that deserves all the stars it can get. Jan 21, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
A nice mix of crack and face climbing with a short walk from the car. Two stars out of five. Dec 11, 2003