Caveman
V7 YDS 7A+ Font
| Type: | Boulder, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01622, -116.1633 |
| FA: | John Bachar; original sit start added by John Long |
| Page Views: | 16,335 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | RTM on Dec 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start by climbing an adjacent boulder on the right side of the cave to access the huge starting jugs, traverse left on STEEEP jugs with bad feet to a cruXy low spot in the roof, finishing up fins and jugs. Downclimb and step off to finish at either the highest jug or at the furthest jug to the left.
Traversing high at the start and utilizing the "hidden" hold, this problem might be V6, traversing low at the start is probably more like V7, avoiding the "hidden" hold is even a bit harder (IMO more esthetic). I think this problem deserves AT LEAST 1 star, prolly 2 because of the uniqueness of the climbing involved.
The sit starts low on the far right of the cave at a pinch and a sloping undercling, about 10 feet below the regular start. Crumbly starting holds have made this start harder over the years. Consensus is that it is a fairly solid V10, holding on for nearly 25 moves being the business.



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