Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: John Bachar; original sit start added by John Long
Page Views: 9,044 total · 46/month
Shared By: RTM on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Start by climbing an adjacent boulder on the right side of the cave to access the huge starting jugs, traverse left on STEEEP jugs with bad feet to a cruXy low spot in the roof, finishing up fins and jugs. Downclimb and step off to finish at either the highest jug or at the furthest jug to the left.

Traversing high at the start and utilizing the "hidden" hold, this problem might be V6, traversing low at the start is probably more like V7, avoiding the "hidden" hold is even a bit harder (IMO more esthetic). I think this problem deserves AT LEAST 1 star, prolly 2 because of the uniqueness of the climbing involved.

The sit starts low on the far right of the cave at a pinch and a sloping undercling, about 10 feet below the regular start. Crumbly starting holds have made this start harder over the years. Consensus is that it is a fairly solid V10, holding on for nearly 25 moves being the business.




Josh Beck  
It's my understanding that going lower at the start and not using the hidden jug is the classic / FA line? Seems a good bit harder than V6 via that route. The iron cross isn't terribly hard if you're, say, 5'8" or taller because you get much better feet. The business is definitely getting under the constriction w/o the hidden jug and then holding on to finish. I agree not using the hidden hold is more aesthetic, btw. Feb 5, 2004
When friends and myself tried it, we started on the blocky arete on the right side, using an ok crimb/edge with the right hand and the base of the good flake for the left. A depression low on the right can be used to lock a good heel hook. From here we either threw to the good part of the left hand flake, or just bump to it. After that is long throws to over hanging jugs with smeared feet, and then the tunnel of the cave. Good luck. I believe the joshua tree bouldering guide rates this higher, with the easier variation at V7 and the harder V8. I've also heard rumors of a V10 sit-start. Dec 22, 2004
Oakland, Ca
lucero   Oakland, Ca
I agree with Josh. Feb 20, 2007
John Long
Venice, CA
John Long   Venice, CA
Bachar and I worked out this problem over the years. When we first started bouldering on it the grain was horrible and the soot an inch thick from years of campfires. 100s of wire brushings and people swinging around on the buckets got rid of most of the grain. We kept adding moves till we'd done the whole thing every which way and by the time I finaly did the sit start we'd been climbing on this problem for four or five years and could do it blindfolded. I think so many laps on Caveman might have contributed to problems with my shoulders once I got "old."

Jul 19, 2011
ShaunG Gregg
ShaunG Gregg   SF, CA
No, that's not my tent at the base of the boulder problem.

vimeo.com/124701420 Apr 11, 2015