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Routes in Mary Worth Buttress

Apple Mary TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottle in Front of Me T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cerebral Dysfunction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Distant Episode T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grain Alcohol TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Joshua Tree T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Uphus and Bill Cramer, January 1989
Page Views: 63 total, 0/month
Shared By: C Miller on Apr 11, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the face about 30' right of Bottle In Front Of Me, starting just uphill from that route. The climbing is fairly unremarkable on this route but the lengthy runouts do add some spice. Although this route has cleaned up some it's still quite loose and with the combination of runouts and bad rock is perhaps best done as a TR via the BIFOM anchors.

Protection

3 bolts (5/16"), bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Ridiculously R, exfoliating, loose and hollow. My friend Bill led this (props), but I wouldn't want to watch anyone do such a thing again! :-O Jan 10, 2010
This route is dangerous even on TR. There is a loose flake at the start that if pulled on too hard will fall directly onto one's feet. I think this is the most dangerous spot, but higher up the rock quality is still not as good as Bottle in Front of Me. It probably doesn't get enough traffic to clean up. Still I found it fun and a bit more sustained than its brother to the left, which eases off lower down. I'd give it a star or two if it weren't for the hazard. May 30, 2006
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Loose and dangerous; not worth the tic. Apr 14, 2003