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Routes in Mary Worth Buttress

Apple Mary TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottle in Front of Me T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cerebral Dysfunction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Distant Episode T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grain Alcohol TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Joshua Tree T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Charles Cole, Dave Houser and Alan Winter, May 1978
Page Views: 886 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Reasonably well-protected friction/edgy face past 7 bolts leads to a bolted anchor/rap. Take a 60 meter rope to descend as the rap is about 95'.

Not a standout climb but worth doing when in the area; it makes a good warm-up climb before heading uphill to do Welcome to Joshua Tree.


This climbs up the middle of the dome shaped formation on the lower part of the Mary Worth Buttress.


7 bolts to a bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8").


DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I thought this was a nice little route on decent rock and with adequate protection. Apr 7, 2008
Name derived from (and a reference to) Frontal Lobotomy.

As the saying goes: "Better a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy." Mar 7, 2006

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