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Routes in Mary Worth Buttress

Apple Mary TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bottle in Front of Me T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cerebral Dysfunction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Distant Episode T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grain Alcohol TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Joshua Tree T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger, Dave Houser and Jan McCollum, February 1977
Page Views: 3,378 total, 18/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

P1) Start 15' left of a huge left-facing corner and climb to a high first bolt. Above, sporty face moves past three more bolts lead up and right then back left to a 3 bolt anchor on a nice ledge.

A 1" piece can be placed under a flake on this pitch too, so keep your eyes open.

P2) Climb off the belay past a bolt then up face past several horizontals and some exciting moves to the top and another bolted anchor.

Descend the route in two (2) raps with a single 60 meter rope or longer; don't try this with anything less than a single 60 meter as the distance from the first anchor to the ground is about 100'.

One of the better routes in the entire Comic Book area with it's variety of moves, excellent positioning and just enough spice to make it memorable. Easily three stars out of five.

Location

Looking at the Mary Worth Buttress from the trail you will see a smooth dome low down where the Bottle in Front of Me climb is located. Uphill from that the formation rises taller, and forms an impressive face, which is where this route is found.

Protection

5 bolts (3/8"), light rack to 2.5", All belays are bolted.

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.10c PG13
Richard Shore  
  5.10c PG13
Excellent and varied face climbing with plenty of spice. Getting to the high first bolt is not trivial, and the final 15' of P2 - up above gear with a haunting slab below - will test the nerves of any honed JTree slab master. Be solid. Nov 5, 2014
Souljah
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
In the tradition of Herb's other "Welcome to..." routes, this one is certainly recommendable. When we did this in the early 80s I may have edged on a few brittle flakes near the P-1 crux, but I don't think the route had seen that many ascents at the time. The first pitch was the technical crux, while P-2 seemed a bit headier. Two pitches of Laegermister; what more could you ask for ? May 2, 2012
Great route...Me and Andy Solo started that route in 1976 and pussed out. The following year Herb nabbed it..Good for him...We were not even ready for it at the time. Dec 28, 2009