The Usual Suspects
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01775, -116.16901 |
| FA: | Chris Miller, Chuck Scott, Loren Scott & Tyler Logan, March 2000 |
| Page Views: | 803 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Step across a pit to a thin crack, then ascend to the base of the arete. This could be quite difficult if you are short.
Alternately, pull third class moves right of the arete and traverse to the base. Pulling the rope through the draws before the second ties in might be a good idea if you choose this start.
At the arete lay off a shallow crack to begin the route. Thin balancy moves lead past three bolts to jugs over the lip. Short, but the technical moves will keep your interest all the way to the top.



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