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Routes in Jam or Slam Rock (NE Face)

No Perch is Necessary T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Usual Suspects, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller, Chuck Scott, Loren Scott & Tyler Logan, March 2000
Page Views: 55 total, 0/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Step across a pit to a thin crack, then ascend to the base of the arete. This could be quite difficult if you are short.

Alternately, pull third class moves right of the arete and traverse to the base. Pulling the rope through the draws before the second ties in might be a good idea if you choose this start.

At the arete lay off a shallow crack to begin the route. Thin balancy moves lead past three bolts to jugs over the lip. Short, but the technical moves will keep your interest all the way to the top.

Protection

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor (all 3/8"). If you do the direct thin crack start, a few pieces in the .5"-1" range.

Photos

Charles I.
Boulder, CO
Charles I.   Boulder, CO
Quite featured and exposed climbing on the arete but a little grainy. Needs more traffic. Mar 30, 2009
Murf
 
Murf  
 
Edited for rating change ( .10 c/d -> .11a ), Parroted guidebook rating initially. Apr 3, 2006
Randy
  5.11a
Randy  
  5.11a
Pretty sustained and very engaging climbing. Apr 3, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
The first ascent climbed obvious cracks straight up to the rounded buttress/arete. I recall a heel hook around the arete being useful to clip a bolt. Nov 10, 2003