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Routes in Jam or Slam Rock (NE Face)

No Perch is Necessary T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Usual Suspects, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rich Perch, Vaino Kodas, Bob Yoho and Herb Laegar, Nov. 1987
Page Views: 491 total, 3/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Pull a technical mantle (easier if you are taller) and clip the first bolt. A spot is not out of the question before clipping the bolt. Slabby moves lead past the second bolt to the base of a thin crack. Off balance thin fingers lead up to and over a roof.

The route is most easily approached from the right. As you look at the rock from the pullout, the top of a dead tree is visible.The route begins in a pit right of the tree.

Protection

2 bolts, pro to 1.5", bolted anchor

Photos

Nick Barczak
5.10d
Nick Barczak  
5.10d
I thought this was a really good climb. The two bolts protect the moves on the lower half perfectly. I thought the crux move was at the 2nd bolt. Bring micronuts and purple/blue mastercams for the crack. It is tricky, but patience will see you through. May 23, 2010
Charles I.
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Charles I.   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Cool climb and FULL value. You can clip before the mantle. Small wires useful for the upper crack. I managed to get two Blue TCU's in to protect the rest. I thought the cracks were quite tricky and consequently took a decent fall here. Yikes. Mar 30, 2009
Randy
  5.10c/d
Randy  
  5.10c/d
Actually, you clip 1st bolt before making the mantle (a balancy clip). Thin face past 2nd bolt leads to fun and easier crack -- thin gear for crack. Downclimb to right. Apr 3, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Short and engaging. All bolts are 3/8" and were replaced March 2000. Nov 10, 2003