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Routes in Nomad Dome

Ben T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Final Furious Farsi S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Angry Arab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ricochet T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Willard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave Houser, Darryl Nakahira, Doug Zeisner, Dave Vaught, Todd Gordon, Paul Quinn and Ian Carter, November 1980
Page Views: 1,823 total, 10/month
Shared By: C Miller on Nov 29, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun, well bolted (for Joshua Tree) face climb up friction face and scoops; a nice moderate far away from the usual crowds.

Note: there's a midway anchor but it can easily be done in one pitch.

Location

Just right of the obvious crack of Last Angry Arab.

Protection

5 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
The 2-bolt rap anchor (south facing) can be used with a single 60m and an easy downclimb. Jan 1, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
OMG Chris! Well bolted? There are some big run outs on this one, namely to the first bolt, and then there's a tricky bulge move just before the last bolt, blow that one and you're in for a ride. I recommend, as stated previously, taking some small cams with you to protect the opening sequence up Last Angry Arab and across to the first bolt, and for the long final runout to the last bolt, that last bolt should probably been placed just below the bulge, but a small cam will fit there so never mind.

Having bemoaned all of that I really enjoyed this route. Nov 29, 2013
FA was Todd Willard Gordon and Ian Willard Carter......two Willards............. Nov 7, 2013
Bo Johnston
  5.7
Bo Johnston  
  5.7
Fun climb! A yellow alien can be placed in the angling crack before the first bolt for piece of mind. The route is a bit run but shouldn't be a big issue. We didn't climb the second pitch (mainly 'cause of the hassle to get down) but the flake above to the last bolt looks like easy but fun climbing. Mar 13, 2005
To get off the dome, go to the top of the dome to a gully.you will see a gully tending to the right. downclimb this to a ledge. look to the right side if this ledge. there is a two bolt rap anchor. at least there was last year. you will need two ropes to rap. Feb 18, 2004
Kevin Currigan
Lakewood
Kevin Currigan   Lakewood
We did the second pitch of this route above the chains. To get off from the top go right off the back and down to a yucca with slings and a taped biner. From the tree its 100' to scrambling terrain down a chimney/gully. Feb 16, 2004
I agree. this is a fun route. we didn't do the second pitch of Willard, but finished off in the upper portion of Last Angry Arab. Apr 29, 2003
Willard was fun. If you find the couple of runouts intimidating, they both protect easily with small tricams (0.5 through 1.5, or pink through brown).

I was not particularly motivated to climb the short, much easier second pitch; the rappel descent from the first pitch anchors is quite convenient. (And yes, they are rappel anchors, not just bolt hangers.) Jan 9, 2003