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Routes in Room To Shroom Area

Chemical Warfare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Cold (aka Shoeless Joe Jackson) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Room To Shroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Drew Bedford, George Zamelis and Skunk - March 1983
Page Views: 1,997 total · 10/month
Shared By: M. Morley on May 12, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Refer to Room To Shroom description for approach information. Start 50' uphill (left) of 'Shroom. Gain finger/hand crack by bouldering up 8' (poor landing - ankle breaker). Move right along finger crack and finish as for Room To Shroom. Descend as for 'Shroom.

Protection

Pro to 2_ (.75 size helpful). A small stopper helps to protect both leader and follower on the final 20' traverse.

Photos

Izzy Nawfal
Redondo Beach, CA
  5.10b
Izzy Nawfal   Redondo Beach, CA
  5.10b
I started from the beginning of the crack. I'd say 5.10B sounds about right. I do agree if you start with the face climb it'll go at 5.9. It seems not many people do the crack start. It had a fair amount of choss when I jumped on it today and kept sliding out of the crack! However, I found the initial moves to be the best part of the climb. Dec 20, 2015
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.9+
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.9+
Considering that the majority of the line follows the big arching crack, starting at the beginning of the crack seems obvious enough to me. Perhaps not necessary, but I'd hardly call it pointless; at least, not anymore than the art of climbing itself.

That said, by Jtree standards (i.e. the first 10 feet don't count towards the grade) it's about a soft 5.9 anyway. Oct 13, 2008
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Not .10b if you approach the crack via the face holds, but maybe if you start at the far left where it's tight jams and steeper? It does seem kind of pointless to do this however. Mar 15, 2008
gimmesome roy
alpine, ca
gimmesome roy   alpine, ca
if its really windy out as when i did this route, a good variation is to go up room to shroom and traverse into chemical warfare, fun for the leader and the second... Nov 24, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9-
I found this route to be on par with the harder 8's or easier 9's at J-tree. this was really not any harder than Room To Shroom itself, which I thought was easy for a 9. The boulder move at the bottom is a single step up on positive hands and a good side-step for feet to gain jugs that go the rest of the way. Pro is cams .5"-3.5" (wide stuff just before turning the corner). Good route- but not a 5.10 at all. Jan 5, 2004

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