Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,165 total · 16/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 9, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Follow the trail from the parking area to the base of the wall and then third-class up any number of easy cracks to the base of this route-the first crack from the left.

Situated on the same face with Dolphin and Bird of Fire this straight-in crack provides good crack practice or a nice first lead on good albeit rough rock (remember Jumbo Rocks isn't far away). This is one sweet climb...easy but more worthwhile than some other nearby routes that are much harder. If it seems too easy then consider using it as a quick downclimb.


Gear to 3 inches, bolted anchor (3/8")


fairly easy route. the rap station is(was)poor when I was there in 1998. Mar 20, 2003
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
All the anchors in the area (Bird Of Fire) were replaced in spring of 1999. The old rap off the south end of the wall is gone although there is a rap right of where Bird Of Fire ends. As a note - it's fairly easy, although somewhat circuitous to downclimb/scramble off the top. Downclimbing this route (Nectar) is another possibilty. Mar 20, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Last time I went to climb Bird of Fire (May 2002), there were good bolts on top, but no chains or rap rings. We walked to climber's left and located another set of new bolts (possibly those of Bee Gees?), but again, there were no chains or rap rings. We ended up rapping from here running the rope directly through the bolts and gritting our teeth on the rap down. In retrospect, I'm wondering if the new bolts Chris is referring to are the newer style hangers that are okay to rap off of? Mar 20, 2003
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
I was there in the fall and all the anchors are there - metolius hangers and rawl bolts I believe, but no rap hangers. The rap near Bird Of Fire is right at the lip and may not be apparent if glancing casually about. Mar 20, 2003
As of March 2003 there is a 2 bolt anchor (but not rap station) atop Bird of Fire. Approximately 10-15' to climber's right at the rounded over edge (just the other side of the bathtub sized hueco from Bird of Fire at the lip) is a 2 bolt anchor and rap station with quicklinks and chains. Single 60m rope reaches. Mar 20, 2003
This is a great intro to solo climbing. Positive hand jams and very secure. Alot of fun with great exposure. Jan 18, 2010
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   California
For a 5.4 offwidth, this thing is fun!! Jul 17, 2011
Bjorn   WNC
Offwidth? In my book "offwidth" and "pro to 3 inches" are mutually contradictory. Handcrack is more like it. Mar 22, 2013
Carla Rosa
San Jose, CA
Carla Rosa   San Jose, CA
Had to run out the last half of the route because I didn't have enough big pieces. I agree that a 4 could be placed, especially in the upper section. I don't think I even used a 1.

Route ends with two bolts/hangers but no rings. There are qquicklinks to rap from, above the route to the right (Dead Bees?) Jan 30, 2017
Bob Klaas
Long Beach, CA
Bob Klaas   Long Beach, CA
I lead this on 10/27/2017. It was my second trad lead. Nectar made me work for it for sure. It was probably my lack of crack technique mixed with the mental challenge of it being my second trad lead that made made it feel a grade or two harder than 5.4. However, the crack is consistent. I'd recommend bringing plenty of 1"-4" cams. Save a #4 for the top section. The crack gets wider near the top.

Nectar has a bolted anchor with quick links. We ended up rapping from the route "Dead Bees" on the right. There is a fair amount of stuck / cut rope in the Nectar crack. So, be careful when you throw your rope. Apparently Nectar likes to eat rope. Oct 30, 2017
GaryT Talavera   Irvine
I led this on October 30th. This could seem harder than 5.4 depending on your hand and fist size. Plenty of good stances to place gear all the way up. As was stated, there are several good bolted anchors on the top of this rock. There are hangers with old chains and rap rings to the right of Bird of Fire (which is a must do while you are there). I did not place anything smaller than a #2 Black Diamond C4. #3s seemed to go just about anywhere and the occasional #4 with a nice place for a #5 about 10 feet from the top where the crack widens for about 12 inches.

The rock in this area is pretty rough and can really tear up your hand so I taped and was glad I did. The scramble up to the ledge below Bird of Fire was pretty interesting. Glad there are rap rings on the edge so I did not have to downclimb.

This formation was in the shade most of the day so it made an 80 degree day feel comfortable. Oct 31, 2017
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
Big shout out to the group of 15 gym warriors toproping this route through the rap rings yesterday. Nothing better then topping out on a climb to find the rings nearly cut in half because someone else was too lazy to use their own gear. Stay classy. Dec 30, 2017
Hobo Greg
My Van
Hobo Greg   My Van
Better crack than the bong, slammer BD 2's & 3's if you're racking up. Only my second true onsight free solo (no bookie lookie). Rewarded with a biner in the crack. Feb 2, 2018
jt newgard
San Diego, CA
jt newgard   San Diego, CA
As far as easy handcracks in the park go...I thought this was miles better than The Bong.

Nectar is a great route for beginning leaders as you can basically slam #3 C4s the whole way. And it is steeper than The Bong, lending some excitement to the whole affair.

Don't forget, you could toprope Bird of Fire when you're done with this!!

PS. We decided to pitch out the approach to the big ledge. Turned out to be a good idea as my partner had a brief slip on the way up. It's easy, but we were glad to have the extra safety margin.

PPS. Just noticed I repeated everything Hobo Greg says. Looks like we are in agreement, sir! ha Mar 21, 2018