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Routes in Isles in the Sky

Agoraphobia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bee Gees T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bee's Knees, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird of Fire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Celebrated Beast T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Bees S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dolphin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Metabolic Frolic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Naked and Afraid S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nectar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinky and the Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raven, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rites of Spring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 1202 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safety Dance TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Save the Last Stance for Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slam Dance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solar Oven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wedlock T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Mamba S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wings of Steel TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Young Guns T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,561 total, 14/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 9, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Follow the trail from the parking area to the base of the wall and then third-class up any number of easy cracks to the base of this route-the first crack from the left.

Situated on the same face with Dolphin and Bird of Fire this straight-in crack provides good crack practice or a nice first lead on good albeit rough rock (remember Jumbo Rocks isn't far away). This is one sweet climb...easy but more worthwhile than some other nearby routes that are much harder. If it seems too easy then consider using it as a quick downclimb.

Protection

Pro to 3", bolted anchor(3/8")

Photos

GaryT Talavera   Irvine
I led this on October 30th. This could seem harder than 5.4 depending on your hand and fist size. Plenty of good stances to place gear all the way up. As was stated, there are several good bolted anchors on the top of this rock. There are hangers with old chains and rap rings to the right of Bird of Fire (which is a must do while you are there). I did not place anything smaller than a #2 Black Diamond C4. #3s seemed to go just about anywhere and the occasional #4 with a nice place for a #5 about 10 feet from the top where the crack widens for about 12 inches.

The rock in this area is pretty rough and can really tear up your hand so I taped and was glad I did. The scramble up to the ledge below Bird of Fire was pretty interesting. Glad there are rap rings on the edge so I did not have to downclimb.

This formation was in the shade most of the day so it made an 80 degree day feel comfortable. Oct 31, 2017
B. Klaasic
Long Beach, CA
B. Klaasic   Long Beach, CA
I lead this on 10/27/2017. It was my second trad lead. Nectar made me work for it for sure. It was probably my lack of crack technique mixed with the mental challenge of it being my second trad lead that made made it feel a grade or two harder than 5.4. However, the crack is consistent. I'd recommend bringing plenty of 1"-4" cams. Save a #4 for the top section. The crack gets wider near the top.

Nectar has a bolted anchor with quick links. We ended up rapping from the route "Dead Bees" on the right. There is a fair amount of stuck / cut rope in the Nectar crack. So, be careful when you throw your rope. Apparently Nectar likes to eat rope. Oct 30, 2017
Carla R
San Jose, CA
Carla R   San Jose, CA
Had to run out the last half of the route because I didn't have enough big pieces. I agree that a 4 could be placed, especially in the upper section. I don't think I even used a 1.

Route ends with two bolts/hangers but no rings. There are qquicklinks to rap from, above the route to the right (Dead Bees?) Jan 30, 2017
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
Offwidth? In my book "offwidth" and "pro to 3 inches" are mutually contradictory. Handcrack is more like it. Mar 22, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.4
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.4
For a 5.4 offwidth, this thing is fun!! Jul 17, 2011
This is a great intro to solo climbing. Positive hand jams and very secure. Alot of fun with great exposure. Jan 18, 2010
As of March 2003 there is a 2 bolt anchor (but not rap station) atop Bird of Fire. Approximately 10-15' to climber's right at the rounded over edge (just the other side of the bathtub sized hueco from Bird of Fire at the lip) is a 2 bolt anchor and rap station with quicklinks and chains. Single 60m rope reaches. Mar 20, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
I was there in the fall and all the anchors are there - metolius hangers and rawl bolts I believe, but no rap hangers. The rap near Bird Of Fire is right at the lip and may not be apparent if glancing casually about. Mar 20, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Last time I went to climb Bird of Fire (May 2002), there were good bolts on top, but no chains or rap rings. We walked to climber's left and located another set of new bolts (possibly those of Bee Gees?), but again, there were no chains or rap rings. We ended up rapping from here running the rope directly through the bolts and gritting our teeth on the rap down. In retrospect, I'm wondering if the new bolts Chris is referring to are the newer style hangers that are okay to rap off of? Mar 20, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
All the anchors in the area (Bird Of Fire) were replaced in spring of 1999. The old rap off the south end of the wall is gone although there is a rap right of where Bird Of Fire ends. As a note - it's fairly easy, although somewhat circuitous to downclimb/scramble off the top. Downclimbing this route (Nectar) is another possibilty. Mar 20, 2003
fairly easy route. the rap station is(was)poor when I was there in 1998. Mar 20, 2003