Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Long & Ray Ochoa, May 1974
Page Views: 37,488 total · 185/month
Shared By: Mike Kidner on May 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Climb the stellar finger-small hands crack to the slightly bulging finish. Nice ledge just below the final 8 feet or so to rest on and get psyched out. You can see the big chalk mark from the ground. Throw in some good pro here and fire it up.

There is a 2 bolt anchor/rap (3/8") located just right of the top of this climb. Rap back to base w/one rope (70').


Apart from the blank first 8-10 feet the pro is beautiful, a rack of nuts, and cams to gold Camalot size will have you sorted.
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Outstanding route for everyone. If your new or timid to leading, this is a great TR (as I did it the first time). For those that have a handle on leading, it will require a bit of courage for the beginning section but the balance of the climb boasts excellent rest stances and bomber pro. Go for the Rubicon afterwards if you cruise it. Jun 11, 2004
Ernest Sierras from eastern Switzerland.This was my 2nd try, successful redpoint. It is a beautiful straight forward route. I think more important than the climb itself is was there a good energy that given moment? I did try rubicon after I got spanked. The energy remaind the same it will be there next time. Feb 13, 2005
Such a good line. The rock is some of the best in the park. I had a hard time milking a good rest out of the last stance, before the business. Maybe better to fire in pro and blast it?

Definitely a climb I'd want to bring with me to a deserted island. Jun 28, 2005
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I have not done this one in quite some time. But I have to totally agree that it is one I would wish to have with me anywhere and anytime. And the rock? Yeah!!! That shit is on the money up there on Isles in the Sky. Most if not all of the routes there are a blast!!! Even the easiest... Jun 29, 2005
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
AC wrote..."I had a hard time milking a good rest out of the last stance, before the business. Maybe better to fire in pro and blast it?"
As Vogel states, "if in doubt, run it out!" Remember that mantra Mar 21, 2006
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
Instant Classic in my book. Just spent a week in JTree and this route definitely topped the list. Can't wait to go back next year and do it again. Apr 23, 2006
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
Great climb. Once past the bouldery start, the climb eats gear. May 14, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Great line and fun. Just before the top out a gold Camalot works like a dream. Unlike the description...a 60m rope works fine from the top anchors. Although, I recommend extending it over the lip due to wear.

Fun and must do!

~Susan Nov 3, 2006
Menlo Park, CA
JP.8d   Menlo Park, CA
This is a great line. Good lead for the rook tradster looking to break into the 5.10 level. I remember lots of good gear past the first 10 feet (which has a flat landing if you pop off). I do recall a lot of face holds to crimp and stand on. Some I remember to sound very hollow (especially nice hold before final bulge) and might not always be there. Worthy of many laps! Nov 7, 2006
tony grice  
The start is kinda scary. Nov 10, 2006
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
A classic John Long route. A beautiful line. Delicate moves up aways before getting in pro. Takes great gear after that. Fell at the top the first time I did it back in Oct 2006. Fun clean fall. Now I can get it without fallen. Enjoy this beautiful Gem. Feb 27, 2008
laguna beach, ca
Shipp   laguna beach, ca
Did this climb yesterday. It was hot - our last trip to Josh for the season.
The bottom - You're about 12' off the deck before you can get any pro in. Be careful here - it's an ankle buster. one 10a move after the traverse in.
The middle - nice climbing on good rock w/ excellent protection - mostly 1" or less.
The top - right before the top gets steep there are about two 5.10a/b moves to a decent stance and good finger lock. Place pro here as high as possible then fire the top. The steep section is 5.9 at best and is a lot of fun. May 15, 2009
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
Wow this climb was fun! I climbed up on good holds to the right of the main crack for a short ways to where I could place a good nut. Then downclimbed a few moves, and with the pro over my head the tricky move getting into the main crack wasn't bad. The middle portion is fun moderate climbing and has great stances for placing gear. The moves getting to the final stance before the bulge were a little tricky, but I was surprised to find that the crack at the bulge widens to perfect hands and there are jugs galore! Just as I was expecting the climb to get harder it got easier!

In short, the pro is great and the climbing is awesome, go do this route!!! May 24, 2010
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Reardon soloing it, naked! Hahaha

youtube.com/watch?v=cTf2P4i… Aug 19, 2010
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
Classic! One of my new favorite lines at Josh. On my first attempt I tried to plug a #3 BD at the top to protect the top out, not knowing it was all jugs. Got pumped in the process and took a nice, fun 15 footer on a .4 BD. Ignored the big cam at the top the second time and finished on the jugs no problem. So fun! Sep 27, 2011
One of my favs! I followed but plan to lead it next time I'm back in J-tree Mar 31, 2012
Northern NM
Souljah   Northern NM
Everything a leader could ask for - this great line delivers. One of those routes you will want to revisit with a friend who hasn't experienced it yet. Apr 26, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
Excellent climb! One of the best .10s I've been on in the park. Has really excellent movement and good position. The first 60 feet (minus the initial start) feels like 5.9 or 5.8+. You really don't get into the .10 section until the very top, so you have plenty of gear below you. And you finish with a "thank god" jug. Excellent! Great climb for those breaking into .10 in the park, I would say. Take a lot of thin gear, up to a #2 (I placed down low), maybe one #0 master cam. I placed several pieces in the 0.5 range. Grey alien at the top along with a 0.5 C4. I placed my orange master cam down lower too. Really pumpy placing the 0.5 at the top jug... Leave the #3 C4 - you won't place it. Nuts work well in a lot of places. The direct start (straight up) is a little headier with no pro below you, but goes well. Jan 7, 2013
Last Monday (2/18) I was climbing at Isles in the Sky in Joshua Tree (Bird of Fire Area). A father and son team were climbing the route next to us (Dolphin) and they accidentally mistook my Katanas for theirs. If you have them please respond to this post. Feb 26, 2013
Rolf Rybak
Penticton BC
Rolf Rybak   Penticton BC
5.10 A. crux at the start ,but there are a couple of options. Solid jams all the way up with good gear. Wonderful hand jams at the top!

Some may want to rope up for the approach, and bring a long piece of webbing to rap out. Apr 4, 2013
Alex A
Alex A  
ONE THE BEST ROUTES IN THE PARK, SO MUCH FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sep 10, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
Is there a better "first Josh 10a" out there? It's mine and I have no regrets. Mar 22, 2015
I was surprised how high the first good piece was! No pro for the first 15 feet or so. The moves are easy but it would be a bad fall. Regardless, this is a must do route and extremely fun! Feb 20, 2016
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
I'm 5'9" and was barely able to sink a 0.75 in the lower crack before committing to the crux down low. If you are shorter, you will likely have to pull this section unprotected. Jan 10, 2018