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Routes in Isles in the Sky

Agoraphobia T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bee Gees T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bee's Knees, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bird of Fire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Celebrated Beast T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Bees S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dolphin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Metabolic Frolic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Naked and Afraid S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nectar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pinky and the Brain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raven, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rites of Spring T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 1202 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safety Dance TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Save the Last Stance for Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slam Dance T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solar Oven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wedlock T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Mamba S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wings of Steel TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Young Guns T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Mike Brown, Rick McKay & Pat Brennan, April 1981
Page Views: 1,943 total, 10/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Located 100' left of Bird of Fire. A fairly fun route that is worth doing, easily accessed via the large ledge at the base of Bird of Fire. This climb originally had 3 bolts but was (in a rare move) retrobolted by the FA party to make it more accessible to climbers at this grade. The remaining bolts were subsequently replaced.

Protection

Climb past 5 bolts to anchors (3/8") Walk off or rap from anchors just right of (facing the climb)Bird of Fire

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
FA: Todd Gordon, Mike Brown, Rick McKay, Pat Brennan 4-81 Nov 11, 2015
First bolt is a little ways up but jugs and easy climbing gets you there safely. I feel the whole climb is easier than 5.9.......say 5.6/7 until the very last move. Anyone saying this is 10b might want to hop on Papa Woolsey to compare. As far as this climb and 5.9 goes, I would call it a one move wonder at the 5.9 grade. Then again, that is how they get the grade, all it takes is one move. None the less, I would say it is worth doing while you are up there. Jun 20, 2012
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
5.9
Rating this as a 5.10b is way out there in my eyes. A solid 5.9 yes. But that's about it. It is a fun, well bolted route that has some cool moves for sure. But again 10b??? maybe if you are either 12ft 11inches, r 3ft, 1inch??? Jun 12, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a
Tried it early (read '90) and got to the first clip.....runnout then ....Interesting that it has been retrobolted. Looked like a nice climb back then, just too ballsey for me back then... Jun 11, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
5.9
We did this sometime back and found it to be well worth the hike. When in the area there are many other routes side by side. Bolted and trad. The Dolphin in particular, for those enjoying "Offwidth" (Me!). Great area! Oct 27, 2003