Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Mike Brown, Rick McKay & Pat Brennan, April 1981
Page Views: 2,328 total · 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

Located 100' left of Bird of Fire. A fairly fun route that is worth doing, easily accessed via the large ledge at the base of Bird of Fire. This climb originally had 3 bolts but was (in a rare move) retrobolted by the FA party to make it more accessible to climbers at this grade. The remaining bolts were subsequently replaced.

Protection

Climb past 5 bolts to anchors (3/8") Walk off or rap from anchors just right of (facing the climb)Bird of Fire

Photos

Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
5.9
We did this sometime back and found it to be well worth the hike. When in the area there are many other routes side by side. Bolted and trad. The Dolphin in particular, for those enjoying "Offwidth" (Me!). Great area! Oct 27, 2003
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a
Tried it early (read '90) and got to the first clip.....runnout then ....Interesting that it has been retrobolted. Looked like a nice climb back then, just too ballsey for me back then... Jun 11, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
5.9
Rating this as a 5.10b is way out there in my eyes. A solid 5.9 yes. But that's about it. It is a fun, well bolted route that has some cool moves for sure. But again 10b??? maybe if you are either 12ft 11inches, r 3ft, 1inch??? Jun 12, 2004
First bolt is a little ways up but jugs and easy climbing gets you there safely. I feel the whole climb is easier than 5.9.......say 5.6/7 until the very last move. Anyone saying this is 10b might want to hop on Papa Woolsey to compare. As far as this climb and 5.9 goes, I would call it a one move wonder at the 5.9 grade. Then again, that is how they get the grade, all it takes is one move. None the less, I would say it is worth doing while you are up there. Jun 20, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
FA: Todd Gordon, Mike Brown, Rick McKay, Pat Brennan 4-81 Nov 11, 2015
Anni A
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Anni A   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Felt like a 10a to me. Those slab moves through the top section were really thin, perhaps it's my skills.... Good thing for those big crystals to tiptoe on. Jun 2, 2018
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
 
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
 
felt every bit of 10a up top Nov 3, 2018