Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Lakey, Chick Holtkamp and Randy Russell, February 1978
Page Views: 4,899 total · 24/month
Shared By: M. Morley on May 9, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is the crack just left of Sail Away. As compared to Sail Away, it is a bit more difficult technically and a fair degree more difficult to protect, especially the traversing section close to the top. One may escape the 5.9 crux traverse by continuing straight up, but then you'd be missing out on the best part of the route. Belay and rap as for Sail Away.


Standard rack to 2" with TCUs to protect thin traversing section towards the top.
I agree that the traverse right and up is a must do. It's a scary runout with a good swing if you fall. I was scared seconding and I'm really looking forward to leading it (does that make me a masochist?). I'd say the traverse makes it a level harder than Sail Away. Dec 9, 2002
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I agree with Flying T. There is a BIG swing potential if you fall and your gear should fail on the traverse out right. This can be managed somewhat by placing gear high in the vertical crack (use a long sling to reduce rope drag) BEFORE heading right. A purple or blue TCU protect the traverse reasonably well. Dec 11, 2002
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
a red alien protects the traverse quite well. Mar 18, 2005
Woody Stark  
This is a superior route vis a vis Sail Away. It's been awhile; I did them both one after the other and was much more impressed with Wild Wind. Further, Sail Away, I feel, is over-rated by a point. Mar 19, 2005
Olympia, WA
Drederek   Olympia, WA
Very enjoyable with a wider range of skills needed than for Sail Away. I opted for the blue TCU on the traverse. Apr 5, 2006
Paul Rezucha
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
A fun route which should be done along with Sail Away while you are there. I found the move off the blocks onto the wall quite intimidating as I couldn't reach and get gear before the move upwards. Turns out it's not hard and quite secure once committing. The traverse out right does protect ok but the moves are a little thin and reachy. Jun 6, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Did this today. The traverse is easily the crux, and doesn't take great gear, but you can get a mediocre tiny cam (blue alien) halfway across...and fill up your best hold in the process. Contra to the comment above, I didn't see anywhere you for a red alien on the traverse. Even though the first third of the route is 4th class, the rest is fun climbing and well worth doing. Summit has one of the best views of routes in JT...looking right at the steep side of Sports Challenge and back over to the HVCG & Steve's Canyon formations. Feb 16, 2007

Vogel's guides show lines going both straight up - finishing on the slab to the anchor - and out right.

It seems to me that the straight-up line is probably the 'real' line, both because it's, well, a straight-up line and because it's protectable. The right-leaning traverse is nice to TR, but ... I wouldn't want to take that fall on lead, and I'm doubting it was the FA line. Anyone know?

I'd heard that WW is "scary" but I found it to be well-protected (though not obvious). It's a bit steep stepping up from the bowl, and possibly a bit height-dependent. You'll want a careful belay to protect your ankles there. Jun 7, 2007
Darren D.  
As has been mentioned, Small TCU's/aliens will protect the crux traverse. However, they sort of get in the way of the small crimpers. Oct 20, 2007
Good little climb. Fun top out. When in doubt run it out. No problem. Lead it no prob. Def. worth the climb. A must do if you are out there on sail away Nov 18, 2008
Reno, NV
  5.9 PG13
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.9 PG13
Fun and challenging route to lead. The traverse can be protected very nicely with a BD 0.4 X4. I wouldn't want to lead it without some pro there - nasty swing. Mar 19, 2015