PRINT: Rock Climb Wild Wind, Joshua Tree National Park

Wild Wind

5.9, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.6 from 349 votes
FA: John Lakey, Chick Holtkamp and Randy Russell, February 1978
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Real Hidden Valley > Hidden Tower

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is the prominent crack just left of Sail Away. Climb the vertical crack for roughly 40 feet (Variation 1), then follow a thin, right-leaning crack (crux, PG13) to the top.

Variation 1: You can avoid the 5.9 crux (the thin, right-leaning crack) by continuing straight up the vertical crack to a saddle on the left side of Hidden Tower. From the saddle, climb the unprotected face to the top of the tower.

Belay from the communal anchor atop the tower and rappel with a single 50m or longer rope as for Sail Away.

Protection

Standard rack to 2" with TCUs to protect thin, right-leaning section near the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leading up Wild Wind with the brightest rope ever known. To the left is Stormy Seas (red line).

Aaron Collins fun times in JTree!

Dave up to the horizontal and then off into the thin crack...

Mike Morley negotiates the 5.9 crux traverse of Wild Wind. Photo: Irvin Fernandez

Heidi heading up variation 1 on Wild Wind.

Myong working her way up Wild Wind.

It held my 15 footer like a champ!

Brent leading Wild Wind

Tom Donnelly leading Wild Wind.

loved this route

me headed up!

Getting established on Wild Wind. The leader in this photo avoided the crux and continued up the vertical crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Flying T

I agree that the traverse right and up is a must do. It's a scary runout with a good swing if you fall. I was scared seconding and I'm really looking forward to leading it (does that make me a masochist?). I'd say the traverse makes it a level harder than Sail Away. Dec 9, 2002

vincent L.
Redwood City

5.9

a red alien protects the traverse quite well. Mar 18, 2005

Drederek
Olympia, WA

5.9-

Very enjoyable with a wider range of skills needed than for Sail Away. I opted for the blue TCU on the traverse. Apr 5, 2006

Paul Rezucha
Alameda

A fun route which should be done along with Sail Away while you are there. I found the move off the blocks onto the wall quite intimidating as I couldn't reach and get gear before the move upwards. Turns out it's not hard and quite secure once committing. The traverse out right does protect ok but the moves are a little thin and reachy. Jun 6, 2006

Will S
Joshua Tree

5.9

Did this today. The traverse is easily the crux, and doesn't take great gear, but you can get a mediocre tiny cam (blue alien) halfway across...and fill up your best hold in the process. Contra to the comment above, I didn't see anywhere you for a red alien on the traverse. Even though the first third of the route is 4th class, the rest is fun climbing and well worth doing. Summit has one of the best views of routes in JT...looking right at the steep side of Sports Challenge and back over to the HVCG & Steve's Canyon formations. Feb 16, 2007

Darren D.

As has been mentioned, Small TCU's/aliens will protect the crux traverse. However, they sort of get in the way of the small crimpers. Oct 20, 2007

BruceB
Reno, NV

5.9 PG13

Fun and challenging route to lead. The traverse can be protected very nicely with a BD 0.4 X4. I wouldn't want to lead it without some pro there - nasty swing. Mar 19, 2015

Nolan Slade
Hamilton, ON

Really fun. Enjoyed this more than Sail Away, though, if 5.9 is your limit it may be a bit stressful.

Bomber #2 camalot goes high and left of the traverse, then into the business: small hands with beautiful dishes with lots of friction for your feet. A blue alien will go in about midway but it’s mediocre at best. The end of the traverse is less generous for foot placements, but as soon as you get a finger in that flake above you, you’re solid.

Enjoyed the bottom section of the climb also. A fun straddle-the-rock move is followed by an interesting sequence below the two parallel vertical cracks midway up. Enjoyable stems lead up the cracks, until the left peters out, and you reach the start of the aforementioned traverse.

Single rack from blue alien to gold camalot is sufficient with a supplemental nut set. Great route! Nov 14, 2019

Colin Brochard
San Diego, CA

5.9- PG13

I had no idea you were supposed to traverse right onto the face which seems somewhat contrived but maybe good climbing. I topped out the crack straight up and then did some easy moves on a grainy runout slab to top out the pillar and get to the rings. The first moves off the ledge might be spicy esp for shorter folks as its hard to get gear into the horizontal before you commit to climbing off the ledge. Feb 9, 2020