Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Dan Osman
Page Views: 3,492 total · 16/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 28, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Beautiful stone and great climbing! Some serious caution is needed, however - only 9 bolts protect this 115 foot long route, and gear placements are few and often nonexistent.

Finding it: Go to the Horse Creek crag via the described ladder. Follow the trail down canyon all the way past the highly developed shady side routes. After you leave the last bolted cragging area, continue on down canyon for a few hundred yards.Look for a fairly prominent trail toward the sunny side (at this point it becomes more prominent than the faint trail that continues down canyon).

Follow this across the creek (may be inaccessible during high water) to the base of a large overhanging buttress. The base of the buttress has an awesome flat area with several big flat boulders that make great tables, chairs, whatever.

Sepultura starts up the right overhanging arete, climbing 11+ moves on beautifully sculpted huecos through several somewhat spaced bolts.Be a bit heads up through the start - blowing a clip would be bad news. However, this portion is reasonably safe.

Around the 4th bolt, you will face a mandatory 20 foot runout. This starts with an 11 move above the bolt and then eases up until you reach a easy but scary standup on to a ledge to clip the next bolt.You can ameliorate the fear here with a 2 inch cam (with a long sling) which can be placed prior to standing up.

From the ledge, make the next clip and do a burly sidepull maneuver that allows you to reach a series of slopers (12a/b). You will want a fairly attentive belay here - the ledge is somewhat ankle threatening.Climb up some 11a terrain that eases up and then allows access to a stellar arete.

Continuous and pumpy 12a/b moves pull through the arete, which is fairly well-protected by 3 bolts.

From here break right onto the featured face and clip the last bolt at about 85 feet. Then run it out 30 feet to the anchors.The runout starts at 5.10, but then eases as you go until it drops into the 5.5 range just under the anchors.You can try to place some gear (small TCUs) on the face as you go, but I wouldn't count on anything holding a fall.

Some locals told me that Dan Osman gave this 12a - he might be right but I think it is a bit harder than that by mere mortal standards. I think 12b is probably more accurate, but maybe that is quibbling. Just don't expect an overgraded 5.11.

The climbing is great- this line would warrant 3 stars if it weren't a bit dangerous. I think another 2 or 3 bolts would have been ideal, and still left it somewhat runout and spooky.This is a good line for a headpoint - if you have all the moves rehearsed, there are a couple of good resting points and you can do it safely.But it makes for a dangerous onsite, unless you can gnarl like Dan Osman.


9 bolts to anchors at 115 feet.

Recommended supplemental gear: A 2" cam with a long sling, and a collection of small TCUs.