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Routes in Other Mill Creek Areas

Black Lesbian Nightmare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Earth Shade S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Going the Distance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Real Talk T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sepultura T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Skeptic, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
diente de perro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Dan Osman
Page Views: 2,618 total, 16/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 28, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Beautiful stone and great climbing! Some serious caution is needed, however - only 9 bolts protect this 115 foot long route, and gear placements are few and often nonexistent.

Finding it: Go to the Horse Creek crag via the described ladder. Follow the trail down canyon all the way past the highly developed shady side routes. After you leave the last bolted cragging area, continue on down canyon for a few hundred yards.Look for a fairly prominent trail toward the sunny side (at this point it becomes more prominent than the faint trail that continues down canyon).

Follow this across the creek (may be inaccessible during high water) to the base of a large overhanging buttress. The base of the buttress has an awesome flat area with several big flat boulders that make great tables, chairs, whatever.

Sepultura starts up the right overhanging arete, climbing 11+ moves on beautifully sculpted huecos through several somewhat spaced bolts.Be a bit heads up through the start - blowing a clip would be bad news. However, this portion is reasonably safe.

Around the 4th bolt, you will face a mandatory 20 foot runout. This starts with an 11 move above the bolt and then eases up until you reach a easy but scary standup on to a ledge to clip the next bolt.You can ameliorate the fear here with a 2 inch cam (with a long sling) which can be placed prior to standing up.

From the ledge, make the next clip and do a burly sidepull maneuver that allows you to reach a series of slopers (12a/b). You will want a fairly attentive belay here - the ledge is somewhat ankle threatening.Climb up some 11a terrain that eases up and then allows access to a stellar arete.

Continuous and pumpy 12a/b moves pull through the arete, which is fairly well-protected by 3 bolts.

From here break right onto the featured face and clip the last bolt at about 85 feet. Then run it out 30 feet to the anchors.The runout starts at 5.10, but then eases as you go until it drops into the 5.5 range just under the anchors.You can try to place some gear (small TCUs) on the face as you go, but I wouldn't count on anything holding a fall.

Some locals told me that Dan Osman gave this 12a - he might be right but I think it is a bit harder than that by mere mortal standards. I think 12b is probably more accurate, but maybe that is quibbling. Just don't expect an overgraded 5.11.

The climbing is great- this line would warrant 3 stars if it weren't a bit dangerous. I think another 2 or 3 bolts would have been ideal, and still left it somewhat runout and spooky.This is a good line for a headpoint - if you have all the moves rehearsed, there are a couple of good resting points and you can do it safely.But it makes for a dangerous onsite, unless you can gnarl like Dan Osman.

Protection

9 bolts to anchors at 115 feet.

Recommended supplemental gear: A 2" cam with a long sling, and a collection of small TCUs.

Photos

Yes, serious PG-13 is more like it. First couple of clips are critical, then there is a spot after bolt 4 with a runout, followed by a ledge that might result in a broken ankle if you mess up. Then a long but easy run-out at the end.

If you are used to bolting at say, Shelf Road or the RRG, this will seem quite dangerous. But it isn't all that bad if you are solid at the grade. Nov 15, 2011
ljh
 
ljh  
 
"R' is a good bit of a stretch. Nov 12, 2011
Josh Janes    
 
Three bolts to a #3 Camalot with a long sling to six more bolts. Past the last bolt there's a horizontal that might take a 0.4 or a 0.5 Camalot. 70m cord required. Bring a knife and a pair of quick links to update the death anchor. Great route! May 8, 2009
If my admiration for Dan and the style didn't come through here, I apologize.I meant for it to be clear - Dan Osman was a gnarly guy.

This route probably left me feeling more rattled than most any 12a "sport route" I've ever done.

I hope to go back some day and send this cleanly - but I will probably make sure I have all the moves down cold on toprope first. Aug 2, 2004
Dan Osman bolted sepultura solo from the ground up.Please have respect for the style.thanks Eric Decaria Jul 29, 2004