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Routes in Other Mill Creek Areas

Black Lesbian Nightmare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Earth Shade S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Going the Distance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Real Talk T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sepultura T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Skeptic, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
diente de perro S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Medera
Page Views: 3,391 total, 30/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Oct 21, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This beautiful line starts in a left leaning crack then transitions to a right leaning crack just past the second bolt.

Location

From the Wicked Crag, hike down river through the "mud bog". Stay left and high after that until you see faint switchbacks on the right. Take this switchback down past a large boulder to a log crossing to the north side of the creek. There are 4 pretty hard looking routes before you reach this one downstream and uphill from the creek crossing.

Protection

8 or so bolts to an optional .5 cam placement (or it's a bit run out)

Photos

Julius Grisette
Carbondale
Julius Grisette   Carbondale
Anyone know what the slab climb on the black panel to the right of this that finishes on an arete is called?

What about the left variation to this line? Oct 23, 2017
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
 
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
 
Goes on gear at a stiff PG13, a definite headpoint with extremely specific gear beta including one tricky to place, but bomber, RP. To do it ground up would border on free soloing........ not recommended. Sep 18, 2015
J. Hickok  
 
I second that - seem to remember hearing the same thing from Nathan. BTW, I believe it's Madera with an A. Aug 14, 2012
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
I'm pretty sure Nathan Martin told me he was part of the FA. Sep 14, 2011
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
If this is the route I think it is, it is the finest 5.11 bolted route I have ever had the pleasure of climbing. Jan 6, 2009
Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
You'll want to climb it as soon as you see it no matter what! Nov 3, 2008