Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA: Fred Beckey, Jim Galvin, Thom Nephew, Greg Markov, Eric Bjørnstad 1973 FFA: Chip Chace and Charlie Fowler
Page Views: 11,171 total · 63/month
Shared By: Max Schon on Dec 31, 2004 with improvements by Nick Sweeney
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Somewhere I read that if you free the first pitch, you've done Pale Fire, and if you don't free it, you've done the North Face. Whatever.

The first pitch is the business. While the technically hardest moves are below the splitter (.12b/c), the splitter rattly fingers crack is stout and sustained. It's .11d, but it ain't no Indian Creek .11d (meaning, if you struggle on .11d at the Creek, then you'll get your ass whooped on this section). Mostly #1 Friends, .5 and .75 camalots. I wouldn't recommend stopping at the hanging belay, but instead go the next anchor about fifty higher. The whole pitch is about 160 feet.

The second pitch is sustained .10d. Mostly hands and cups. #2 and #3 camalots. After the crack ends, there are some balancy face moves getting to some ancient drilled angles. I wouldn't recommend stopping at the end of the crack, cause you'll have an uncomfortable hanging belay. Work past the couple angles and star drives (can't remember what they are exactly) until you get to the slabby face.

The third pitch has a lot of fixed gear (drilled angles, star drives, and other ancient relics) that go up the slabby face. This pitch is mostly 5.10, with an occasional 5.11- move.

One more easy pitch to the top.

Three double rope raps back down the route.

Protection

Standard desert rack up to fist size. Maybe one #4 Camalot and some extra rattly fingers for the first pitch.

Photos