Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dunn, Green, Snively, Rasmusson, 73 FFA: Achey, Randall, 82
Page Views: 12,109 total · 60/month
Shared By: George Bell on Sep 5, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is less well known than Primrose Dihedrals but is very nice. It is the easiest free route up Moses and consists mostly of 5.9 and 10- with one short but burly crux pitch. The route is on the northwest face of Moses, so it is generally shady. The upper part of the route is very obvious, following a huge right facing corner left of Moses' chin when looking from the parking lot.

P1 (45m): Solve a boulder problem through a small overhang (5.9+) to reach a discontinuous right facing dihedral. Follow this up and left (5.8). This crack widens just before the belay and a #4.5 Camalot is useful here, but is not necessary if you are willing to run it out a bit. Belay from a large ledge below an overhanging right facing corner.

P2 (60m): Climb the corner (10-) and continue up to the base of a chimney. You should probably belay here if you do not have a 60m rope or are experiencing rope drag. Climb partway up the chimney and then exit left, face climbing (5.9 PG) and then following a left facing corner all the way up to a gigantic ledge (5.8). There are 2 bolts on the right side of this ledge. If you follow the chimney too far it turns into a 5.10+ squeeze ending atop a flake (slings). From here you can still traverse left to the big ledge.

Move the belay left 50' to the base of the crux corner.

P3 (25m): The crux pitch. Follow the right facing corner past an undercling (5.10+), then climb 20' of burly fist crack (5.11-). There are some desert bolts left of this crack, but you will also need several #3.5-#4 Camalots. Where the crack turns overhanging, crank into a cave not visible from below and belay.

P4 (45m): Burrow back into the cave and then exit straight up (5.8). This is a bizarre but quite easy pitch and you must squeeze through a very tight constriction. If you are a really big guy you may not fit (my chest size is 41" and I had to exhale). The only other option is to follow the main crack up, it is supposedly 5.11 offwidth and looks horrific. Belay from 2 bolts on a large ledge just below the top.

P5 (15m): Climb past 2 bolts (5.8) to the summit.

Descent: 4 Rappels down the North Face (Pale Fire route). The first rappel is only about 60', then do 3 more double rope raps. There are 2 hanging stances, fortunately the old decaying bolts have been replaced.

Protection

Standard desert rack plus extra #3.5 and #4 Camalots for the crux.
Did this route around 1988 or 89 and didn't have much to go on. When I got into the cave to belay and looked out at the "horrific" overhanging offwidth looming over me I nearly shat myself. Imagine my surprise when I found the cave exit in the back of the cave. Fun route! Mar 5, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Pete, I still have the postcard you guy's sent me while on that trip just to rub it in good that I was still in school. I also remember the Mets that year in the playoff games I assumed with great glee you guys had missed the whole series with the Philies. No you came home and had gotten KOA out in Taylor Canyon. You heard the Mookie Wilson miracle and had gotten in some great first ascents and great early repeats.... Argh! Nov 2, 2008
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
 
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
 
Trout gets the credit for the 4th pitch crawl. When we did this and got to the belay cave at the end of the 3rd pitch, he pointed out the possibility; a debris choked crack of light in the back of the chimney. We were both game to eliminate the original 5.11 offwidth, so I sat patiently while Ken began excavations. After about an hour of concerted effort and a great deal of dirt, we were able to barely squeeze through, sans harnesses. Feb 2, 2014
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
 
You don't need any 4 Camalots on the 3rd pitch!! Take 3 #3s and 2 #3.5s. Felt rather harder than 11- but it was my 1st rockclimb in Moab yesterday. INCREDIBLE summit. All super manky belays with pitons and various metals pounded into holes wrapped in tat.. Classic! May 3, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Great route, not as good as primrose, but fun. PM me if you need detailed beta. Mar 15, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Great route if Primrose is to hot/sunny.
In that final tunnel-through, go low or high, one or the other.
Walking straight back on the obvious foot ledge just got me stuck... Oct 5, 2015
Kat A
Boulder, CO
 
Kat A   Boulder, CO
 
The first pitch is protected with #5 Camalots (new size) after a bouldery start (Aliens). Pitch 2 is 60m of excellent climbing - bring extra slings to alleviate rope drag. We did not feel the left-hand variation of P2 was 5.9R - more like 5.9 with a short section of easier run out (and I'm a weenie when it comes to runouts). Pitch 3 is an amazingly fun blue-collar-style-big-hands-crack that can be linked with pitch 4 (the tunnel). Oct 5, 2015
Mark Dunn
Moab, UT
 
Mark Dunn   Moab, UT
 
Great climb. Wide, burly and a little bit dirty, but that just adds to the fun. We brought our #5 and used it a couple times, and bring a lot of C4 #3s and #4s. On pitch 2 we tried to stay left to hit the bolted line, but we think we cut left too soon and ended up in a 5.9ish gully with decent pro. Squeeze/Tunnel was super cool.

We did 5 single rope 70m raps down the pale fire route. Fun, super exposed, and a couple hanging belays.

I left a .4 silver cam (metolius, I think) on the belay below pitch 3 (the 11- fist crack). Its engraved with MP on the cam lobe. If anyone is nice enough to return it, I'll throw a 12 pack their way. Just shoot me a message here. Mar 16, 2018
Ryan Rex
Spanish Fork
 
Ryan Rex   Spanish Fork
 
Awesome climb. Couple notes:
As others have said, the “R” rating of pitch 2 is not warranted. The rock is crumbly for a single mantle-ey move, 5.9, and you get a marginal piece to protect.
Fwiw, I enjoyed bumping up my #6 in sections on both p1 and p2. #5 was ok, but the 6 fit much better
P2 is very long. There’s a couple options for decent-but-not-great intermediate belays if you’re running out of gear.
I thought the topos in the guidebooks for this route were oddly inaccurate/confusing. The route is straightforward. Just follow your nose up the best path Dec 2, 2018