All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > Argon Tower

North Northeast

Name: North Northeast
Rating: 2.5

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British

Routes in Argon Tower

	North Northeast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	38.63325, -109.60195
FA:	Gordon & Evans 1984
Page Views:	2,102 total · 7/month
Shared By:	david goldstein on Oct 27, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This would be a good climb if it were on decent rock. Otherwise, it's a weak one star, but more or less worthwhile from the adventure standpoint. It supposedly goes free; we employed some sort of trickery on every pitch. The unreliable nature of the "stone" discourages any kind of bold free climbing.

The route climbs the leftmost line on the north end of the tower.

From the ledge on the west side of the tower, spot a set slings 20' up the far left side of the west face.

P1 40' 5.6 (?) Figure out a way of reaching the slings. This pitch looks like easy and straightforward friction, but our shoes shot off slopers we thought they'd stick on. Our leader ended up lowering into a gully from which he could nervously free climb up to the slings.

P2 25' 5.10 (?) Free climb, aid, french free, or whatever up a thin vertical crack to a large ledge. Belay as far to the east of the ledge as you can.

P3 100' 5.10 (?) Climb the hands and wide crack system on the left, not the thin crack system directly above P2. Getting into the crack system is tricky, so not sure how anyone free climbs this. We climbed up ten feet and tension traversed into the crack. Once into the crack it's hands and cups for about 50' until you reach two old bolts at a poor stance beneath an offwidth/chimney section through a bulge. Continue past the offwidth and a short layback and hand traverse section (#0.2 - #1 Friends) and belay at a decent ledge below a a short left facing corner.

P4 30' 5.11 (?) Up the corner which starts at #1 Friends and diminishes to blue Alien. A couple of face moves on disintegrating holds gets you to a two bolt anchor below the summit bolt ladder.

P5 20' 5.8 C0. This pitch was challenging even with pulling and standing on each bolt. The pitch ends with mandatory free climbing.

Descent: From the top of the P4, rappel the west face. Two 60 meter ropes might get you to the bottom in one. It was too dark to see the ground, so we made a second rappel off an anchor midway down.