Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Pease and Steve Cheyney ‘72
Page Views: 6,752 total · 44/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Feb 5, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


If you free this route, you are a true desert free climber.

Pitch 1 – Climb a thin crack in a right facing corner to a ledge. There used to be an anchor here but it has been stripped of it’s hangers. Continue up the crack as it widens from #3 to #4.5 Camalot over the next 50 feet and belay at a fixed anchor in the alcove. (5.11 or C1)

Pitch Two – Wiggle out the bombay chimney and continue up the crack passing some less than stellar rock along the way. Belay at the fixed anchor on the shoulder. (5.10- or 5.9 C1)

Pitch Three – This pitch is shared with the North Northeast route. Climb past the lone pin to a small ledge and then make a couple easy but serious free moves to the summit. (5.8 C0)

Rappel the Route


Approach using a wash on the north side of the tower. Look at the summit shot below to see where this wash leaves the main drainage.


Two sets of Camalots up to #4.5. 1 set of nuts (mostly medium to large). 1 set of small tri-cams. Extras in the #4-#5 range might not be a bad call if you’re going to be aiding or if you don’t love offwidths. 1 screamer.