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Little Monster
5.15d YDS 9c French 39 Ewbanks XIII- UIAA 41 ZA E11 8c British V15+ YDS 8C Font M16+ A5+ Steep Snow X
Avg: 3 from 16
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Routes in South Central Rocks
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Dung Flinger V2 5+ |
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Knee-Jerk Reaction V2 5+ |
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Little Monster TR 5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c V15+ 8C M16+ A5+ Steep Snow X |
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Skidmark V0-1 4+ |
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Sloper Problem V4 6B |
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| Type: | TR, Aid, Boulder, Mixed, Snow, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Dan Dewell |
| Page Views: | 9,023 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Dewell on Apr 30, 2002 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This burly beast-of-a-problem is located within ten feet of Erica's Arete on a huge boulder. The potential for a very serious, life-threatening fall is...well, very serious. I debated on whether placing a couple of bolts mid-way up this monstrous boulder problem (thus the name "Little Monster"), but chose to err on the side of the strictest of ethics, since most people trying this will be a solid 5.13d climber and, of course, have at least three spotters and three crash pads (note: in the photo, you'll see only one spotter for me, but don't try this at home...I have the moves wired).
Getting up to the crux is moderately challenging (a mere V9 sequence), then there is one helluva a crux at the lip of the problem which will spit almost every on-comer--unless of course you are the burliest of climbers and techinically astute, then this full-body mantle will be just a measly challenge.
Start with your hands up high and keep your feet on the face of the boulder. I"m not going to give a lot of beta, but you'll move up, and up, and up, then mantle over the lip.
A SPOTTER IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!!!
See photo for beta...
Getting up to the crux is moderately challenging (a mere V9 sequence), then there is one helluva a crux at the lip of the problem which will spit almost every on-comer--unless of course you are the burliest of climbers and techinically astute, then this full-body mantle will be just a measly challenge.
Start with your hands up high and keep your feet on the face of the boulder. I"m not going to give a lot of beta, but you'll move up, and up, and up, then mantle over the lip.
A SPOTTER IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!!!
See photo for beta...
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