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SPOILER ALERT - this is a sequence map.
ID 111806665 ·

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Apr 25, 2016
SPOILER ALERT - this is a sequence map.  
Ha! Not at first. That's why I wrote it down.

Since you mentioned it, I think it was L-R-L-R-L-R-L-L-L-R-L-R-R-L-R-L-R-L-R-L-L-R-L. I know I there in a clip or two and also a shake here and there. Needed to leave something to the imagination. Jul 19, 2018
Wesley Neill
Sequoia National Park, CA
Wesley Neill   Sequoia National Park, CA
Please reconsider posting things like this on mountain project. I don't think any respectable climber would want this much assistance, and if they do, I don't think they should be climbing. I'm sorry for the rude post earlier, if anyone read it. Sep 13, 2018
Wesley - I'm the creator of this post and take full responsibility for every good and bad part of it. I read your original post, while I agree with some of the things that you said, I also appreciate you reconsidering some of your statements. More people supporting the sport and learning how to do it properly (whether in a group or not) will only help preserve the areas which we love.

I've been climbing for nearly 30 years and as such have seen the sport evolve in so many different ways (again some for the better and some for the worse). You may be correct in stating that any "respectable climber" wouldn't want this much information and although this is my exact beta map in all it's glory (gory detail), part of the reason I posted it was with tongue in cheek.

Further in my lame defense - I warned everyone in the photo caption - don't look if you don't want to see how the magic trick is done. That said, this is a stout 10a that has caused a number of big whippers for new leaders and I'd hate for anyone to get hurt on this (or any) climb. Ironically, there is SO much chalk everywhere that there are a million sucker holds on the route and route finding is actually difficult, particularly for new leaders.

My intent was to be playful and over the top with my picture, but inspired by the number of climbing videos available online, many of which show both amateurs and pros alike working project routes (Sharma on Es Pontas in King Lines comes to mind), I can only presume that some people are interested in this stuff. It was not my intent to offend the community or reduce the fun of the sport which I love. And although I don't plan to make this a habit, I do think the discussion that we are having alone substantiates the original post. Be safe. Sep 13, 2018

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