P1

All Locations > Vermont > VT Ice & Mixed > Smugglers Notch… > 08E - Elephant'… > Elephant's head gully (WI3)

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Heading up the first pitch

Start of P1 (or P2 depending on how you break it down). Only 3- section of the pitch

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B L

Dec 16, 2015

“P1”

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Nearby Photos

General view of the first pitch

Every once in a while the second pitch comes in steep on the left side. Much easier variation on the right still possible.

Descent

Nearing the top of Elephant's Head Gully

First pitch

coming up to P1 anchor

Top of pitch one looking back into the Notch

Beginning (crux) of last pitch

Belay station at the base of the route

End of the route

Crux at the beginning of the second pitch

At the first belay, my partners did not see the bolts on the right. Harder variations to to last pitch pictured

Rappelling down Elephant's Head Gully

Anchor at top of P1. Never had ice fall issues here but I can see how it could happen. Whenever I've made a screw anchor further up it's a little safer but had less comfortable standing position for belayer. Weigh those issues and decide for yourself

Heading up the first pitch

Start of P1 (or P2 depending on how you break it down). Only 3- section of the pitch

P2 crux in fat and steep as of nye '25

Rappelling the P2 crux

Good party of 3 climb. Really fun day out w/ the crew

Looking down into the gully's rap route from P2 belay tree. This part looked like it might be a good mixed option. More ice further to right in photo. Windy and cold with lots of biting spindrift made this a very alpine day.

downed tree on EHG P2 top-out as of 8/9/21

Rappelling down the amazing corridor.

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