Bob Margulis styling the slabby crux moves.

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Prusik Peak > W Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Bob Margulis styling the slabby crux moves.

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Climbers coming up the West Ridge Photo by Michiel Zuidweg

Prusik Peak west ridge from just N of Prusik Pass. The climb begins in the obvious lighter-colored crack. Our approximate line shown, with belays used. Turned around at crux slab so don't have belays beyond here.

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4.9 from 10 votes

Andrew Carson

Aug 1, 2010

“Bob Margulis styling the slabby crux moves. ”

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Nearby Photos

Traversing along the ridge.

Awesome painting that shows the West Ridge route up Prusik Peak. We used this a lot during our ascent.
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*with permission from [https://sarinapizzala.com/trip-reports/enchantments]

At the top. Woooo!

Climbers coming up the West Ridge Photo by Michiel Zuidweg

Bob Margulis styling the slabby crux moves.

Prusik Peak west ridge from just N of Prusik Pass. The climb begins in the obvious lighter-colored crack. Our approximate line shown, with belays used. Turned around at crux slab so don't have belays beyond here.

Start of friction slab with old manky rusty pin. Not very long, good friction with limited holds. Your feet are the only pro for a few moves. Photo by Bruce LaCroix

W. ridge

Exposure on pitch 3

"route finding" a little off route.

Katie pausing to take in the views near the top of pitch 2 of the West Ridge. This truly is the stuff of dreams!

Photo by Erik of www.highpressurephotography.com. Me at the crux, slightly run out slab before the traverse pitch.

West Ridge of Prusik Peak

Prusik Peak across Lake Viviane

Summit view in the fall!

Easy but exposed climbing on Prusik's West Ridge

Purple - start of route; Yellow - rappel/bail station I used as 1P anchor; Red - the crux 5.7 slab, right below is the 2p anchor; Green - 4p offwidth variation, feels to me as 5.8, right below is 3p anchor; Blue - The possible easiest 4p choice 5.5ish?

The 5.8 finger crack variation on the last pitch

The upper pitch of the route traverses out right and avoids the wide crack.

Alt 5.8 OW finish starts with low 5th class to left facing corner down low not visible in photo to a nice ledge then transitions to wide right facing corner that finishes on the summit

The final rap into the snowfield (6/15/16). This was the scariest part if you ask me. (Bring micro spikes or crampons and an axe maybe...)

OW Last Pitch of West Ridge.

Easy crux

Looking out into the Enchantments from the base of the route.

West Ridge is the ridge on the left.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

rappel

Jessaryn looking like a pro

Following the white granite road to the summit. The "crux slab" here was much easier than I remembered it being the summer before.

West ridge and south face of Prusik.

Highly recommend to bag this in October!

W. ridge

Pitch 3 face, protected by pin

About 60 feet below the summit, it's tempting to end your 1st rappel at this station. I don't trust that rock. I would recommend continuing another ~30' down and diagonally skier's-right to a much more securely-wedged chockstone that's also already slung.

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