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Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Experiment: "wrong rope weight" was almost comple…
Aug 24, 2022
Dynamic rope length is dynamic
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Climbing above Kong Prog on lead
May 7, 2022
The Kong Prog is certified to carabiner norms. It passes the same tests.
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Identify this rope
Apr 13, 2021
Yes, there are static ropes without twisted cables in the core. It is an american-style static rope. The core fibers are straight and not spun or twisted into the spring-like c…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Creaking harness. Replace?
Apr 12, 2021
Chalk dust builds on rope ends and harnesses from your hands, belayer hands or spills. It is often the cause of creaky sounds coming from nylon and webbing products in use. &nb…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Rope Impact Forces
Mar 26, 2020
Good belayer with high impact force rope always has a higher impact than a good belayer with a low impact force rope.
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Rope Impact Forces
Mar 26, 2020
High impact force means high impact on that sharp edge. Low impact force means low impact on that sharp edge.
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Are sleeping bag liners BS?
Apr 25, 2019
It’s not your bag, it’s your pad. Take a second foam pad (or part of one) for your core. Leave the liner idea in the 80’s.
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Actual weights of 60cm slings
Feb 27, 2019
11mm 10mm 8mm 7mm they all pass the same 22kN standard so they all need about the same amount of material to achieve that load before failing. Width is achieved with different…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Maillon Rapide
Mar 3, 2018
Maillion Rapide are made by an independent company and manufacturer located in France called Peguet. http://www.peguet.fr/ you can find WLL information and breaking strength in…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: How to Sharpen Extremely Dull Crampons?
Jun 9, 2017
Easy and fast sharpening of picks and crampons: You just need a bit of extra leverage. Holding them in your hands and filing is frustrating compared to this simple technique.&n…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Mammut Ropes
Nov 27, 2016
Mammut ropes are no longer made by Mammut or made in Switzerland. They have closed their rope factory in Switzerland. Mammut ropes are now made in Czech Republic by a contract…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Cam Lube options
Mar 7, 2015
When the temps dip below freezing, many synthetic lubes like Cam Lube begin to gel and your cams may not work. When it gels, it can gum up the springs and everything else insid…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Grivel Picks
Mar 6, 2015
Original Monster and Q Monster look the same, but Q Monster is a thick, burly mixed/comp pick from an older comp tool called Quantum Race. Original Monster is about 3mm thick a…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Grivel Picks
Mar 3, 2015
There are 4 Monster blades. X Monster, Q Monster and Monster. The forth is a short blade called Alp Monster and fits the older Alp hammer tools. X Monster is the 'standard'…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Grivel 360/Helix same tubes/threads?
Dec 27, 2014
The Helix and 360 are identical to each other except for the hangers. The Speedy versions are just a Helix or 360 with an attached sling and carabiner, saving the need/weigh…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Rope Production Year
Jul 19, 2014
Ropes built now days also include a small, plastic ribbon that runs the length of the rope core. The plastic ribbon is marked with UIAA and the year of manufacture printed ever…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Brand new rope made in 2011. Normal?
Apr 27, 2014
The "rule" is 10 years from First Use with a recommended maximum life of 15 years from date of manufacture. You lose nothing by buying a rope made in 2011. Ropes made back in 2…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Reviews
Reply: Don't buy Petzl Dragonfly half ropes.
May 12, 2012
Petzl ropes are made by Cousin in France. Cousin makes ropes for many french brands like Millet, Petzl, and Simond. Probably other brands as well.
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Axle grease, WD40, or K-Y?
May 10, 2012
Wax based lube will freeze and render your spring loaded caming devices useless in cold temps. Frozen White Lightning reduces your cam springs ability to push the cam agains…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Best Anchor Chain: Metolius PAS vs. Bluewater Tita…
Feb 29, 2012
Best material for personal anchor is your rope. Not so easy to use when coming down. The Beal personal anchor lanyards can take a factor 2 fall and make belaying and repelling…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Review: Kong Back-Up
Feb 5, 2012
The Backup will catch a fall in both free mode and lock mode. It would be a terrible "backup" indeed if it didn't. Lock mode means the device will freely slide up the rope,…
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