Mountain Project Logo

Climbing above Kong Prog on lead

Original Post
Halp · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 4

Hello,

I searched and found a lot of reviews of the Kong Prog, but I can't find a definitive answer to my question.  Can you lead above a Kong Prog without swapping it for a regular carabiner?  I see most cheater quickdraws you're supposed to swap out when you get up to them because the stiff connection between the dogbone and rock side carabiner could cause the gate to open or put a weird force on it when you fall exceeding the gate rating.  This documentation for the Kong Panic addresses this.  I looked at the manual for the Kong Prog and only saw a diagram to show not to back clip in picture number 7.  Diagram 6 makes it look like you can climb above it, but it's confusing and all three images in it look back clipped. So I'm not sure what it's supposed to be showing:  https://www.kong.it/upload/files/I_KONG_ZZV05672_rev.0_PROG_A3_v1.pdf  The text doesn't address the question.  Does anyone have any insight?  Is there another official source that may address this?  It seems like it may be different because of the locking nature of the clip.

Thanks!

Teton Tom · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 113

My take on the Prog is that by putting something other than a gated carabiner on the anchor side of the rigid  draw, they’re removing that risk of cantilever loading. I agree that their images make the rope side of the draw look as if it’s clipped gate facing in to the rock, exactly opposite of what Petzl shows in their diagrams…

Just saying, you’re probably not going to die in either situation.

The Word · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

The Kong Prog is certified to carabiner norms. It passes the same tests. 

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257

I’d imagine the caliper gate closure mechanism on the Prog would change that possible failure mode but I’m no engineer and would like to hear more informed opinions.

Halp · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 4

Thanks for the input, I'm going to try to reach out to Kong and see if they have anything definitive.

Halp · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 4

I got an email from Kong and it seems like they support this use. The initial question was on a web submission asking if you can use the Prog in a way you can't use the Panic.  I've attached three images of my conversation with the Kong sales guy.  I'm happy to forward the whole email chain to a Mod, but I'm not sure I can/should post email addresses here.  I bought one and used it for the route I had in mind, it helped and I liked it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Climbing above Kong Prog on lead"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.