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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Cap Rock Area
> Top Hat Rock
> Molar
Up 40
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 3.7 from 7
votes
Routes in The Molar
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Ether Binge TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Incisor T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Molar Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Skin of the Teeth, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Tooth Decay T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Up 40 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 27 ft (8 m) |
| GPS: | 33.98703, -116.16402 |
| FA: | John Bachar, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 4,268 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Stackhouse on Oct 16, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the "easiest" route on the formation, and the original to the summit. A corner start leads to a slightly overhanging layback/fingers crack up the south side of the rock. A tall, scary boulder problem or a fairly runout lead. Originally, one had to jump across the void toward the top of Molar Crack!!
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