Practicing Self-Rescue
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Curious on the technicalities of practicing self-rescue techniques/skills. I have a setup at home for making anchors, but that is at ground level so its impossible to truly hang and practice any techniques in the middle of the route, during rappelling, etc. I would like to practice these skills in relative safety, just not sure how to bridge the gap between practicing on the ground and doing it on the wall. I don't have any stairs accessible. I'm also aware of practical courses to take. Those are 1-2 days and I would like more time/opportunities to expose myself to these techniques safely. Everywhere I have looked says "practice these skills before getting on the wall!!!!", but then no real info on how to accomplish that. My best guess is to setup a top rope on one rope with a belayer. Fix a second rope to the anchor and practice the skills on the fixed rope while your belayer keeps you on...? Seems little clunky with the extra rope in the way, but maybe that's the cost of practicing safely. |
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Find a short, unpopular sport route with a comfortable standing ledge at the anchors. Stick clip/ascend your way up. Fix a rope to said anchor as your backup and use it. Tie munter mule over hands, add a klemheist hitch. Releasable hitches are your friend. Transition from ascending to descending, hauling to lowering, and vice versa. Tie rescue spiders. Practice passing a knot that combines two ropes in a single strand lowering situation. You’ll need a “victim” to practice your pick offs. Maybe you have a haul bag you can fill with weights and ropes? You’ll need to have an understanding of lead rope soloing. Learn how to escape the belay and set an upward directional anchor. I fully recommend taking a course or more. |
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All of Andrew's advice is solid. I would add one additional resource that I have found to be super helpful - VDiff Climbing - Self rescue and problem solving video course It's $40ish dollars and I found it to be very worth it. Everything is demo-ed in videos and animations and it's a great start to learning this stuff if you can't make it to an in person course. |
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Are you generally good at learning on your own? From book into hands on? Get Fasulo’s Self Rescue. Each day you have available to practice:
Off season may be easier to find willing partners |
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I'll chime in with another book; Ian Nicholson's Climbing Self-Rescue. Chapter 13 - 'Preparation And Practice' covers much of what you're looking for, with the exception of solving your challenge with only having a ground-level anchor. The introduction also addresses 'The Unquestionable Importance of Practice', the key takeaway being that in stressful situations people seldom rise to never-before-seen skills enabled by adrenaline, etc. -- but they do reliably rise to the level of skills which they have practiced. Check out any nearby well-known aid climbs, well-reputed but preferably not to the extent of being busy. You may benefit from slightly overkill numbers/configs of bolts/anchors, including teachable counterexamples of cockamamie/manky b.s., etc... Here in LA I've learned a lot on the Old Aid Bolt Ladder at Stoney Point, running TRS-belayed laps on a few occasions and also my first (aid) LRS thanks to a convenient burly ground anchor. In the MP entry you'll find several examples of people practicing hauling etc... |
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Better than nothing (for me, at least): anchors in the house that you can reach by standing on a box (mine are in the floor joists above my unfinished basement). The extra 2 feet of travel go a long way towards improving the realism of raises, knot passes, etc. |
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A big tree at a park works too. Were used that option for after work skill events. Throw a static rope up over a tree arm, ascend the rope to build an anchor off the arm and hang your rope. It lets you ascend, rappel, etc. |