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Routes in Jesus Wall

Central Route TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jesus Wall Left TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Edge TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Aid Bolt Ladder T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1 PG13
Type: Trad, Aid, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,555 total · 28/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Nov 12, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Update 3/2/08: I ran across this today on: bigwall.com/scag_lac.html#a…

JESUS WALL (5.6, C1)
This manky bolt ladder ascends the large blank face right of a huge chimney system splitting the front wall and is clearly visible from Topanga Canyon Blvd. Easy free climbing leads to the first hangerless bolt.
Pro: Gear for 17 bolts, several rivet hangers.

--------------------

For those of you looking for some exciting aiding on old bolts at Stoney, give the bolt ladder here a whirl. The first bolt makes you think that it won't be too bad, but that's the nicest bolt on the route. The highlight is the bent nail hook thingy that twists. Overall it all felt pretty secure. All placements are good for body weight, but I wouldn't want to take a whipper on any of them.

It's easy to scramble to the top and setup a top rope and use that as backup in case a bolt pulls so you don't zipper the line. Most bolts at Stoney are suspect and these especially so. Almost every hanger is a spinner and some want rivet hangers behind the rusted hanger to keep the pull close to the rock.

Location

Obviouse bolt ladder in the middle of the Jesus wall. Climb up the first 10' and clip the starting bolt from a good ledge.

Walk off / up is the same as Jesus Wall. Either do the 5.1 climb / scramble up on the right of the wall (see Chris's photo
Jesus Wall ) or walk all the way around and on top of the wall the long way.

Protection

2 rivet hangers (more if fixed ones missing)
18 draws
Screamers (optional if leading)
aid gear

Currently (11/12/07) all bolts, rivets, crap are in pretty good condition so all you need are the rivet hangers (by pretty good I mean for an ancient bolt ladder). No hooks or anything fancy needed. You could easily get away with a few wired nuts and use those in place of the rivet hangers.

The top anchor is accessible by leaning over the edge (not bad). It has 3 bolts: 2 homemade hanger spinners that are suspect and partially pulled out and a newer looking nice bolt. I'd back the anchor up off the boulder directly behind it with a 20' sling.
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
hmm, more of a terminology question, but don't aid ratings by definition have danger ratings built in? Ie, C1 X is self-contradictory? Is that how to rate a rusty bolt ladder? Curious. Nov 12, 2007
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
"It's all A1 until you fall". I was trying to convey that all the pieces seemed great, but whipping on bolts at Stoney could be your last time to do so. So really it's probably C2-3F, but I'm curious what people with more experience might say. I also had a TR backup, so hence it's C1 to do it that way, but leading it would make groundfall a possibility (or several aid grades harder). So I called it C1F-X as a compromise since I don't advocate leading on bolts at Stoney. So feel free to regrade it and the consensus will prevail.

edit: I reread it and realized what you meant. Anyway, I clarified.

Originally rated C1F-X, changed in body. Nov 12, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Agreed, "C1 X" is self-contradictory. C1 by definition means that the placements (or in this case a bolt ladder) are straightforward and solid, and there is virtually no risk of any piece pulling. Also, "taking a whipper" is not really applicable when it comes to aiding a bolt ladder. Nov 12, 2007
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
I redid the grade to C2 to more accurately reflect the lead of the line. According to the New Wave ratings it should be C3+ because of the groundfall potential, but that seems to high a number. I'll be curious to see what someone else says when they climb it (especially if they lead it / have led it). I could change it to C1 and call it a toprope too since lead bolt climbs are usually not recommended at Stoney. It seems a little tough to accurately describe the ease of placements (bolts = easy) with the danger factor associated with suspect bolts. Thoughts? Nov 12, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Jordan, I think you'd be hard pressed to find any bolt ladder listed on the entire site as harder than A1/C1, whether it be in Fisher Towers mud or Yosemite granite. Although I have not climbed this particular route, I would find it difficult to imagine a C2 or higher bolt ladder. Maybe Chris O has an opinion on it? Nov 12, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
BTW, I'm not trying to be a jerk. I hope it didn't come across that way. Nov 12, 2007
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
I'm regrading it back to C1 and just adding the PG-13 since the bolts may or may not hold a fall. Chris Mac. overcame this conundrum in the Big Walls Supertopos by adding an R to aid that has a dangerous fall potential. For example, the Black Tower pitch on Zodiac gets a C2R rating since it's C2 moves, but above a ledge. That's what I was trying to convey in the original C1F-X rating. C1 for ease of placements, F for the fixed rivet hangers, and X for the groundfall potential. The R just seems weird to me to think of runout on aid. I just didn't want to grossly misgrade something so the comments are appreciated. Nov 13, 2007
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
I don't do a lot of aid, unless I'm stuck! BUT: Old rusty 1/4" star bolts and rivets in sandstone? I wouldn't touch this ancient bolt ladder if you paid me. Technically straight-forward ut decidedly risky.

Man I'm bummed that this route has more comments than any on the Stoney Point part of MP! Feb 19, 2008
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
  5.5 C1
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
  5.5 C1
Someone rebolted this thing super nice. Its all bomber 3/8 black fixe hangers with a belay station 1/2 way up and 3 rap rings at the very top. They pulled out everything execpt for the thick metal stud after the first bolt you have to tie off and the bent nail hook that moves just past the mini roof. The bolts are pretty close and you can skip a few of them. Its sick that it's safe and cool and good for pratice, but kinda lame since the scary sketchyness factor is gone. Mar 18, 2010
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
as of 2/10 the old-aid line has been replaced by myself Ryan mattock.
read through this thread on the super taco. then you'll get the wierd story about those bolts within the last couple of years. the bolts may be too close but talk to Glen dawson about that i left the nail to let fellow spot climbers know that it's all about aid!. also i kept it consistent with respects to the original F.A. ascent.
and tristan : i'm also bummed that it's solid A1 rating is gone. maybe we could find the original hagers... read the thread man!

cheers!
RM
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Apr 3, 2010
BrooksBonstin
Los Angeles, CA
 
BrooksBonstin   Los Angeles, CA
 
Thanks for rebooting this, Ryan, and for leaving the bent nail. That thing definitely got the old blood pumping for the few moments I had it tied-off. It's a great nod to LA history that this bolt ladder remains, plus it allows us novice aid climbers a chance to learn the ropes. Feb 6, 2012
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
thank's. that old aid line is a fun thing to hang on. get ur game on with the aid stuff. the el capitan is next! enjoy. Feb 26, 2012
Jonesey  
After the major modernisation in 2010, the mankiness appears to have vanished. There are no spinning or loose hangers. Yes, there are a couple of historical artifacts that you have to hang on, but they seem pretty solid. I've posted a few more details + photos at supertopo.com:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… May 3, 2012
I climbed the bolt ladder today 5.28.13 for the first time trying aid. it was super fun!

@ryan, thanks for the rebolting, fantastic job!

@jordan, you should update the description on this page is it's certainly not manky anymore since ryan's rebolting. i'd say it's pretty bomber, although i wouldn't want to take a whipper. I prefer to top rope solo it.

if you're top rope soloing, there are three rap rings/bolts up top. I didn't use them though as, well, it's bolts in sandstone ;) instead i slung a boulder a couple feet back of the cliff and also put in a BD #3 and #2 to create a bomber solo top rope setup. You could use the bolts and back it up by slinging the boulder though.

glad the two old pieces of nostalgia remain. i used a small wire nut to hook them. May 28, 2013
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
  Easy 5th C0
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
  Easy 5th C0
How tall was the first ascentionist? Them bolts are mighty close. Nov 3, 2013
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
  Easy 5th C0
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
  Easy 5th C0
Leftmost bolt at top anchor is a weetad loose. Feb 2, 2014

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