Current condition of heart ledges fixed lines
|
Anyone know the current condition of the fixed lines from heart ledges? |
|
not much help to you now but but i'll be heading out in june and I have a couple of ropes to donate to the cause. From my experience the condition of the ropes change quickly so if you're not going quite soon it will change before you get there. Normally during high season they are in decent shape but its always a bit of a crap shoot. |
|
Thanks Dan. We’re here now and just about to blast up Freeblast. Brought 2 ropes just in case. |
|
Todd Felix wrote: We’ll all be waiting for your report!! |
|
I hear that they're pretty tattered, and that there may be some folks to swap them put in the coming days but I am not certain |
|
What's up people of the internet. I was just up on the lines these past few days, I'd say they are currently passable, but not in the most confidence inspiring condition. But everything is soaked up there!!! |
|
We ended up bailing on Freeblast so no report on those fixed lines from us. Sorry. Sounds like Steve has me covered though. |
|
How wet was Freeblast? |
|
Freeblast is dry except for the half dollar and just below which have moderate seepage (the crux entry move is dry). Off of heart every rope has at least 1 knot to pass. There are a couple of blue dynamic lines that are really crusty and/or have bunching sheath that can't be easily rapped, so use the other on the way down. Off of mammoth the rope is good. The mammoth ledge hand line is badly coreshot on the downclimb side, which you don't know until you have walked across the entire ledge. There wasn't enough slack to isolate the section. |
|
Awesome. Thanks Austin. |
|
Heard from sar buddy they got replaced. |
|
Update as of 06/05/2023: All lines are doubled and in good/great shape, with the exception of the single line on the short (55ft) segment below the Lower Heart anchor. Thanks to the three letter gov't agency and JM for the donation of three newish cords to enable the double lines. Also thanks to whoever removed the blue lines with knots. I set the orange 80m from the top*(center) of Mammoth to the Lower Heart anchor and the extra came up 20ft short of making the short segment. I was too lazy to jug back up and reset it, so the remainder is coiled and tied off at the ledge 20ft below & left of the Lower Heart anchor. If someone wishes to reset the orange rope to the leftmost Mammoth rap anchor, it will then allow for the short segment to the doubled (or it could be unfixed from Lower Heart, refixed to Upper Heart, and go straight past Lower Heart to the next station). I don't care either way, though I thought it was a nice option to be able to rap directly from the top of Mammoth and skip the downscramble to the leftmost Mammoth anchor. Lastly, not to be a nag but please consider the ramifications of leaving empty bottles as you walk past them. I don't think it's "above and beyond" to take a sniff test on two partially empty bottles and consolidate them if they are equal on the sniff test, and pack out the empty bottle on your way down. Better stewardship on our part =(typically)= less regulation by powers that be. Edit: EL lines are all in great shape, no knots on any lines, a couple raps have multiple lines (first and last have mult lines) as of June 9 |
|
Anybody know the precise lengths needed for each station? Looking to buy some cheap odd length static lines as they become available with the intention of donating them to the Heart Ledges/Mamoth Ledges fixed lines. Obviously they won’t be needed for a bit but it would be nice to hopefully accumulate a few before they need replacing. Something I’ve wanted to do ever since using the fixed lines to and from Heart Ledges when I was 15 (Spring 2000). |
|
Not intending to buy ropes that are the exact length of the distance between anchors/stations, just need to know that they are longer than the distances between the stations plus plenty of extra for knots, slack, rebelay’s if needed, and alpine butterflys to isolate any chore shots. Ex: If there is a station that is 140’ from the previous one and a static rope that is 175’ that’s significantly cheaper than a 60m I would grab it. Or say there’s section between stations that’s shorter than the rest, say 100’ and there’s a 140’ length static rope for next to nothing, again I would grab it. Odd length ropes can be found at great prices, even if it’s a uber long odd length. I have a Blue Water Enduro that I bought last year, it is around 270’ long and I got it for $120 shipped (diameter and color were also possible contributing factors in the price). Edit: Regardless, I am interested in the distance of each of the 5 fixed lines between Heart Ledges and the base of the wall, independent from the (unneeded) contributing of static rope(s) to the fixed lines. |