Training all day endurance
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I want to do a trad climbing sufferfest on my birthday in Joshua Tree. The goal of climbing 23 pitches in a day. Does anyone have advice on training for full days of climbing like this? I'm pretty confident the logistics will be more challenging than the climbing, but I would hate to have to tap out when there is still daylight left. |
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Is it safe to assume you are doing more strenuous roped pitches? |
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John Clarkwrote: Pretty good mix of 5.8-5.10+ |
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Joe Johnsonwrote: Okay, so not soloing territory for you. I would figure out your shoe plan, then tape/glove setup, and finally food/meal plan, shit is easier if you have fuel in the tank. Finally, get your list in a good logistical and energy order. Don’t put your hard stuff at the end. |
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Carry a 40 pound pack up hills in between climbing days or backcountry ski. |
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Cardio. Bike over drive wherever logistically possible. Essentially the best training will be simulating long days and doing a little more when you don’t want to, like having to bike home after a long day or a hard gym session. If you have a desk job, try standing for progressively longer times if possible. Time on feet is important. |
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Logistic wise: don't get stuck into one plan. Study enough routes and areas to be able to pivot when things aren't going how you originally planned. I had a whole list planned for City of Rocks and 33 guidebook pitches on my birthday, but ended up climbing only a fraction of what I had on that list. Luckily, I knew the area well and was able to call an audible that made the rest of the group happy, and allowed me to get my pitches in. |
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Love a good birthday challenge! 24 and 30 were both memorable years for me because of a bday challenge extravaganza. The best practical advice is mentioned above: have a plan but be flexible and able to pivot. Keep a few routes or areas in mind in case the original is a no-go due to lines, conditions, not feeling it, etc. Unless you have a very dedicated partner, having a few buddies who are just out cragging sub in for certain climbs/parts of the day keeps the psych high, keeps the party going, and helps ensure that you don't have to stop because your partner is done. In my experience, people love being part of the action and actively helping others achieve their goals. Even having a non-climbing friend meet you at xyz area with some snacks and a high five can be fun for them and you. Invite the crew to the after-party/campfire/dinner in town and it becomes a pretty memorable day for all regardless of success. Have fun, check your knot, and happy birthday! |
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Here are a few tips to help you train for a full day of climbing:
Remember that climbing is a challenging sport and safety should always be the top priority. It's important to listen to your body and not push yourself too hard. |
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Lol. "Try to climb with a partner so you can take turns belaying each other." Thanks, ChatGPT! |
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train by climbing multiple pitches in a row . I will climb 4 to 8 pitches in a row to train endurance. Climb lower off and immediately re tie in and climb the next pitch. Also climbing fast and efficient is key to banging out pitches . |
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Sirina Fosterwrote: Dude the internet is getting really weird. Why are bots invading threads as mundane as this? |
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I did a successful 31 pitches this year, and it took a lot of soloing and a lot of logistical management. Make sure you get people who are there to prioritize your climbing. You will need a handful of belay slaves, and you should not belay. Don't even bring a device. If some one is climbing in your group, it's because they're trying to 'reserve' the route for you. Don't be a dick if someone gets salty about you hogging a pitch, just tell people that you're doing birthday pitches and you got next. If they get salty don't cut their rope in half or whatever, just pick a different pitch and relish how long they take to get past a 5.9 crux. (people who respect the send gods will respect the birthday suffer fest, and join you if they're really cool) If you don't care about the ethic, have part of your group pre hang draws so you can just clip and lower at the chains. Have someone climb behind you so they can clean. If you're clipping trad gear, low and slow turns into fast when you're efficient. Multipitching is where birthday pitches go to die. You're not that efficient. If you are that efficient you know that multipitching is not how you get 20+ pitches in unless you're NIAD and at that point you really should be trying for V points on top of your pitches. (a cool idea for future me is to wait until I'm 40 and do 40 pitches and 40 V points, that way I can just die before social security is defunct and have to worry about retirement) You're going for volume, which makes 5.10+ seem really hard after 20 pitches. 30 had me really worked. I saved a 10c or so for last, because I hate myself and want to be kicked when I'm down. I did this at Squamish, and climbed from smoke bluffs to Chek. Soloing makes things really fast and if you're comfortable, go solo a 5.6 when you're looking at the clock and wondering if the line will die down or if you'll be able to make it before dark. Onlookers will be amazed because it's soloing, and your friends can worry about your safety because you look a little shaky on that bomber jam on a 50 degree slab, which will be both funny and thought provoking for everyone. I love a suffer fest, and wish you best of luck! Happy future birthday, and let us know how it goes! |
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scott pedersenwrote: Some days, don't lower. I will do up-down-up-downs as pure endurance training. Granted, the difficulty is generally the limiting factor for down climbing. But it's a great way to build endurance, practice resting, getting used to climbing with pump. |
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Spencer Moorewrote: Your hardcore...... |




