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How to make multipitch more comfortable

Original Post
Dustin Helmer · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 32

I did a route this weekend where the belays were either free hanging or had a tiny (3-4") ledge to stand on. I got down and everything hurt. How can I avoid this in the future without hauling up an ass hammock with me?

Joe Say'n · · Gießen, .de · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Dustin Helmer · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 32
Joe Say'n wrote:

I'd have to climb 5.13 to compensate

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

This is where you find out how comfortable your harness is - by hanging in it. And helps you to understand why big-wall harnesses are so padded (and heavy).

You might think about getting a harness with more padding, like a Misty Mountain or similar.

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

BITD they had these little belay seats made out of ripstop nylon. They fit easily in your pocket. Much better than hanging on your swami. Maybe they still make them? Or you could make your own. 

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 120
Daniel Joder wrote:

BITD they had these little belay seats made out of ripstop nylon. They fit easily in your pocket. Much better than hanging on your swami. Maybe they still make them? Or you could make your own. 

Called  a bosun's seat.  I recommend  the misty mountain  cadillac harness. You can get them custom made with up to 7 gear loops.  And then get a good all day shoe.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Yates still makes a belay seat.  http://www.yatesgear.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=998. It is truly an ass hammock, but the idea that you are "hauling it up with you" is maybe a bit much; you can stuff the thing in a pocket.

Normal Customer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

Dustin Helmer · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 32
rgold wrote:

Yates still makes a belay seat.  http://www.yatesgear.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=998. It is truly an ass hammock, but the idea that you are "hauling it up with you" is maybe a bit much; you can stuff the thing in a pocket.

$26, eh? Got my cheap ass over here plotting how I can make one from an old pair of jeans and some old ratchet straps or somethin.

Drederek · · Olympia, WA · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 315

Sometimes a little research can tell you which belays you should avoid belaying at. Learning how  to “let” your partner take those will improve your comfort level 

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

A comfy big wall harness may weigh about 5 oz more than a regular harness. That's the weight of a #2 C4 or 5 biners. I'm weight conscious and try to minimize, but that's so worth it IMO.

EJN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 248

fish makes a tiny three-point belay seat that folds up to the size of a chico bag. That and volleyball kneepads will change your life.

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

First off:   MEEEEEOW!!!!    

harden the fuck up, fer christs sake.  

Those foldable deals squeeze your hips such that you'll only take it on one route.  On aid climbs, a hard seat makes multi-hour belays pleasant.  

An SP keeps you out of belay doody....

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
Daniel Joder wrote:

BITD they had these little belay seats made out of ripstop nylon. They fit easily in your pocket. Much better than hanging on your swami. Maybe they still make them? Or you could make your own. 

Robbins Seat

Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491
Auden Alsop wrote:

B. Take your shoes off at belays if you aren’t already

Unless you are doing some climbing that is totally at your limit requiring super-tight shoes, this is mostly just a sign of improper footwear if it's necessary anywhere close to every belay. As 95% of multipitch climbing people do tends to be comfortably below single pitch max grade, there really is no reason to size your shoes like you're going for a personal best redpoint on a route with really technical footwork. 

This doesn't mean never take off your shoes to give your feet a break, but if you find that your feet are in serious pain at the end of every pitch, something is very wrong.

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 425
Dylan Colon wrote:

Unless you are doing some climbing that is totally at your limit requiring super-tight shoes, this is mostly just a sign of improper footwear if it's necessary anywhere close to every belay. As 95% of multipitch climbing people do tends to be comfortably below single pitch max grade, there really is no reason to size your shoes like you're going for a personal best redpoint on a route with really technical footwork. 

This doesn't mean never take off your shoes to give your feet a break, but if you find that your feet are in serious pain at the end of every pitch, something is very wrong.

#MyDawnWall

anything 3+ pitches and >5.9

;)

dindolino32 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

Make ur partner climb faster.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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