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Hardest single move possible ?

Original Post
Zack Clarke · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

It seems like after a certain grade, climbs are solely graded on how many hard moves or boulder problems they have contained in them. That being said. What is the hardest single move humanly possible? Is there or will there ever be a single move that is 5.15 or harder? 

Bryan K · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 657

All points off dyno to a quarter-pad, pinky-width mono on an overhanging wall?  

brian n · · Manchester, WA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 87
Bryan Kozak wrote: All points off dyno to a quarter-pad, pinky-width mono on an overhanging wall?  

It has to be earlier in a trad route so you have a rack full of gear throwing off your balance and weighting you down.

Andrew Poet · · Central AZ · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 161

V17/9a bouldering is already getting close to 5.15 (granted not single moves but Burden of Dreams isn't very long). Seems like a matter of time.

WoodyW · · Alaska · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70
Bryan Kozak wrote: All points off dyno to a quarter-pad, pinky-width mono on an overhanging wall?  

But are you inverted?

CrimpDaddy WesP · · Chattanooga!! · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 3,138

5.15 is a collective difficulty so saying there will never be anything harder than 5.15 doesn't really make sense. Hardest moves are almost always graded by boulder grade. For example, a climb might start with a V6/7 into 5.12, followed by a v5/6 into more 5.12. 5.12 doesn't tell you the individual difficulty but rather the overall difficulty.

I expect to see V18 in my lifetime. Currently I'd suggest the hardest moves in the world are located in Burden of Dreams, Nalle's 4 yr proj and for sure the hardest thing yet if his track record says anything about how long it takes him to put down hard climbs. Also, that problem is only a few moves, so it stands to reason the moves are individually pretty hard. 

Dan Cooksey · · Pink Ford Thunderbird · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

The stem moves on Plumbers Crack are the hardest moves possible.

Bryan K · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 657
Big Dick Johnson wrote:

Pretty sure that's what the crux to Action Directe is, which hasn't been the hardest route for a long time now.

Action directe is freaking nuts but it's not an all points off dyno (granted it's off of a shallow mono) and it's to a pretty deep 2 finger pocket.  

Mark S Warren · · Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Asking out that good looking person that climbs three full grades harder than you... Duh.

Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493
CrimpDaddy-WesP wrote: 
Currently I'd suggest the hardest moves in the world are located in Burden of Dreams, Nalle's 4 yr proj and for sure the hardest thing yet if his track record says anything about how long it takes him to put down hard climbs. Also, that problem is only a few moves, so it stands to reason the moves are individually pretty hard. 

If no one here has seen the full film of the project, it’s worth it: Burden of Dreams

It’s like 5 moves, and each and every move took one of the world’s best boulderers a season of effort to unlock. It’s both the most impressive and most absurd achievement
JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17
Brian Abram wrote:

If no one here has seen the full film of the project, it’s worth it: Burden of Dreams

I have a great deal of respect for Nalle Hukkataival but not $9 worth.

Augie Wagner · · Richmond, VA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 705

An interesting perspective from Daniel Woods in 2012:

The hardest movement I’ve done on rock is a V12, maybe V13 move. My hardest boulder ascents involve linking four or five low-percentage V11 moves in a row. There’s nothing wrong with that.
For my generation, it’s hard to perceive of what a single V14 or V15 move would be. It could happen, but to be able to stick to the rock for that one special move would be rare.

W K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 167

Getting out of the thin crack at the end of Toe Jam

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

The single hardest move will continue to get harder. Ondra has said he's not the most genetically gifted climber, he's really motivated and trains hard. It's like setting the 100 yard dash record. As time goes on it often takes longer and longer for someone new to break the record, but eventually it goes. We just need the next Usain Bolt of climbing. Someone will come along and climb a number of Ondra's climbs and then send something harder. But it may take years for that grade to be confirmed (until we get someone else that capable).

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52
Will K wrote: Getting out of the thin crack at the end of Toe Jam

lolz!

Yuri Rodea · · Long Beach · Joined May 2018 · Points: 46

It could always be some gymnastic move like Iron Cross on crimps idk

CrimpDaddy WesP · · Chattanooga!! · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 3,138
Augie Wagner wrote: An interesting perspective from Daniel Woods in 2012:

Its been 8 years. I'm curious if harder moves have been done. I thought I remembered The Process having a move that was supposedly V14, but maybe I'm remembering it wrong. 

Mark Vigil · · Taos New Mexico · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 1,795

I know the Jade crux is pretty much one move.  I also know there is a dyno project in clear creek on the wave wall that is a very hard single move project

tom donnelly · · san diego · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 394

5.9 is the top of one scale,  B3 for another,  how about MEVHSPDH19F?

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

The foot lock upside down that Ondra did at the beginning of "Silence".
Alternatively a overhang double dyno from 2 mono to a single mono would be up there but I never saw it done before ;)

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

Hardest move????
Telling my lady it was my fault, when it really was.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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