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justgoodenough
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Sep 29, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 41
Direct belayed two followers up a climb recently with my old-sharp-edged reverso. My arms got tired.
What atc-style device out there has the least resistance for pulling up rope? Outdoorgearlabs says BD atc guide and that the juls and smarts are worse. What do you think?
I've been using my grigri when I go out with one person, the rope runs real easy. Do I just bring two?
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climbing coastie
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Sep 29, 2019
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Wasilla, AK
· Joined Feb 2011
· Points: 95
What do you call ATC like? The Kong Gi Gi is the smoothest autoblocking device I know of, but it’s not technically a “tube” style device.
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Daniel Joder
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Sep 29, 2019
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Barcelona, ES
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 0
A couple of other variables to consider: 1) Diameter of the rope(s) involved, and 2) Your stance in relation to where you had your device set up (if you have the device too low, it will be a royal pain to pull the rope(s) through). We’re either of these points relevant? I have a DMM Pivot and have no issues with ropes up to about 9.8mm as long as I hang the device high enough and locate my stance low enough.
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Olav Grøttveit
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Sep 29, 2019
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Bergen, Hordaland
· Joined Apr 2017
· Points: 5
I tested a bunch of belay-devices earlier this year, hoping to find an assisted braking device that would work for me on trad multipitch (I use halv-ropes). : BD ATC Guide (older model) Dmm Pivot, BD ATC ALPINE Guide Edelrid MegaJul Edelrid GigaJul Mammut ALPINE smart
The absolutely smoothest one for guide mode was the DMM Pivot. Best feeding, and superior ease of use if you need to lower/give out some slack with tension in the system. its also the only one with a decent sice hole in front for using a biner / attach a sling to help with the lowering. a tad better holding power then the regular ATC for thin ropes when belaying the leader.
None of the assisted ones worked in any way with thin (8,5mm) ropes for lead belaying in my opinion. Guide mode was not as good either. Worst one for guide mode was Edelrid MegaJul
I ended up with using the BD ALPINE guide for climbs where we swap leads, as it was the only one that gave eanough braking power to actually hold a decent fall on a skinny rope without burning your hand. Guide mode is good eanough that I dont mind.
If I am mostly leading I take the Dmm Pivot as it handles better in guide mode.
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saxonguy
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Sep 29, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 0
None of the assisted ones worked in any way with thin (8,5mm) ropes for lead belaying in my opinion. Guide mode was not as good either. Worst one for guide mode was Edelrid MegaJul
I ended up with using the BD ALPINE guide for climbs where we swap leads, as it was the only one that gave eanough braking power to actually hold a decent fall on a skinny rope without burning your hand. Guide mode is good eanough that I dont mind. A bit offtopic, but the microjul (not the megajul, even though it is rated for 7,9 mm or higher) performs well for lead belaying on small ropes in my opinion. I feel very comfortable being belayed/belaying with it. For reference, i use 8mm half ropes and the device autolocks. i like being able to use a semiautomatic bely device even with half ropes. I agree the dmm pivot handles very well in guide mode.
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climber pat
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Sep 29, 2019
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Las Cruces NM
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 301
ollieon wrote: Direct belayed two followers up a climb recently with my old-sharp-edged reverso. My arms got tired.
What atc-style device out there has the least resistance for pulling up rope? Outdoorgearlabs says BD atc guide and that the juls and smarts are worse. What do you think?
I've been using my grigri when I go out with one person, the rope runs real easy. Do I just bring two? If you were using 2 single ropes then you would be better off climbing caterpillar style. These devices are designed for 2 double/twin ropes simultaneously.
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Tradiban
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Sep 29, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
ollieon wrote: Direct belayed two followers up a climb recently with my old-sharp-edged reverso. My arms got tired.
What atc-style device out there has the least resistance for pulling up rope? Outdoorgearlabs says BD atc guide and that the juls and smarts are worse. What do you think?
I've been using my grigri when I go out with one person, the rope runs real easy. Do I just bring two? Do more push ups.
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Bill Lawry
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Sep 29, 2019
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Albuquerque, NM
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 1,814
climber pat wrote: If you were using 2 single ropes then you would be better off climbing caterpillar style. These devices are designed for 2 double/twin ropes simultaneously. Agree. As just another opinion ... I like how my 8.5mm twins/doubles feed in guide mode with BD’s ATC Alpine Guide. I only use that with two concurrent followers.. And the same device-rope combo nicely catches lead falls when twin technique is used (non-guide mode). Disclaimer: The only other brake assisting device I’ve used to bring up followers is the regular ATC Guide.
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Chris C
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Sep 29, 2019
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Mar 2016
· Points: 407
I’ve found the DMM Pivot to be smoothest device in guide mode I’ve used.
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Albert B
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Sep 29, 2019
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Mammoth Lakes
· Joined Apr 2018
· Points: 42
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Mei pronounced as May
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Sep 29, 2019
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Bay Area, but not in SF
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 177
Steph David wrote this, “If there’s one thing I can’t live without, it’s a gigi.” And she has a whole blog post explaining it. https://stephdavis.co/blog/kong-gigi/
If you are in the Bay Area, you are welcome to check out mine.
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Olav Grøttveit
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Sep 29, 2019
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Bergen, Hordaland
· Joined Apr 2017
· Points: 5
saxonguy wrote: A bit offtopic, but the microjul (not the megajul, even though it is rated for 7,9 mm or higher) performs well for lead belaying on small ropes in my opinion. I feel very comfortable being belayed/belaying with it. For reference, i use 8mm half ropes and the device autolocks. i like being able to use a semiautomatic bely device even with half ropes. I agree the dmm pivot handles very well in guide mode. Yeah, of the other assisted ones I tried, the Megajul gave the best braking power. I do think the microjul could work for lead belay, but I guess it still sucks in guide mode ?
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Luc-514
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Sep 29, 2019
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Montreal, QC
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 12,535
Also avoid any I-frame carabiners (like attache 3d) those extra edges add tons of friction.
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justgoodenough
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Sep 30, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 41
Thanks for all the advice, this was what I was looking for. I'll give the gigi/ovo a shot, I didn't know they existed and it's a cheap experiment. I'll think over the dmm pivot, seems like it might be a good compromise.
When doing a party of three, I take a 9.5 mm infinity and a 8.0 phoenix that I use as a tag line. I do my best to get it up high.
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Linnaeus
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Sep 30, 2019
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ID
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 0
Kong Gigi(or the Ovo) for sure. It is a very versatile device to have for multipitch. Caterpillar style climbing with 2 followers is not very time efficient, and with a Gigi you can easily belay them off the plate even with two 10mm ropes.
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