Experience needed to guide

Ran across a guide at the Gunks and over the course of chatting he mentioned he’d only been climbing a year. I thought that I must have heard him wrong and that he meant guiding a year but he said it again. He had clients with him but I didn’t get the opportunity to watch him climb or instruct. 

Would you feel comfortable with a guide with only a year of climbing experience? Especially in a trad area?

I realize that people learn at different rates and that for some people they can pick up these skills at an amazing speed but part of me feels like a lot of it is through gained through nothing more than time and experience. But I’ve certainly been wrong before.

Thoughts?

Adrienne DiRosario wrote: Ran across a guide at the Gunks and over the course of chatting he mentioned he’d only been climbing a year. I thought that I must have heard him wrong and that he meant guiding a year but he said it again. He had clients with him but I didn’t get the opportunity to watch him climb or instruct.

Would you feel comfortable with a guide with only a year of climbing experience? Especially in a trad area?

I realize that people learn at different rates and that for some people they can pick up these skills at an amazing speed but part of me feels like a lot of it is through gained through nothing more than time and experience. But I’ve certainly been wrong before.

Thoughts?

The most basic outdoor guiding certification in the US, the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor requires that one has been climbing for at least 12 months prior to taking the course. It's recommended that one spend 6-12 months practicing the skills learned in the course before taking the exam. It seems unlikely this person was certified and even more unlikely that he would be hired by any reputable guide service in the Gunks.

DrRockso wrote:

The most basic outdoor guiding certification in the US, the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor requires that one has been climbing for at least 12 months prior to taking the course. It's recommended that one spend 6-12 months practicing the skills learned in the course before taking the exam. It seems unlikely this person was certified and even more unlikely that he would be hired by any reputable guide service in the Gunks.

Agreed. Even then someone theoretically with only 18 months experience could be a guide. Which brings up my original question. Would you trust that person to keep people with no experience safe? What about outside the normal day to day, in “oh shit” situations with clients? As a partner, sure. 

It's not unheard of for people to pass themselves off as "guides" with little more than a stack of business cards, a note on a climbing shop / climbing gym bulletin board and whatever climbing gear they happen to own. The only thing that surprises me is that he was so open about his lack of experience.

The Gunks is "akin" to an outdoor gym.

 The boted raps - the totally solid rock - horizontally stepped,  -one move, then rest wonder climbs-  

 means any one in superstrong  mode & mentally clear of mind can act as an instructor, belay slave

that is not guiding it is cragging in the Gunks,

I am not throwing shade on the great & highly skilled super, fully experienced Guides!

 They are expert in knowing how to evaluate the needs of respective clientele.

 I'm sure Marty or whom-ever  knew exactly what was needed and provided it to well cared for clients.

TRADTROLL ! 

HERE YOU HAVE SHOWN YOUR TOTAL LAX  KNOWLEDGE - AGAIN!

"DIRTYBAG"(? MAKING A FEW BUCKS TAKING HIS FRIENDS CLIMBING. . .

UNLESS THINGS HAVE DRAMATICALLY CHANGED,. . . . . and they have not, It is doubtful that it was an un-sanctioned guide, although there was no location given

 The Gunks Is a paid to climb hike bike visit location
  everyone needs a day pas or yearly membership,

 access is restricted to only a few points of entry.

They enforce and patrol, you actually need to show that all climbing and non-climbing members of a party have paid, or are "guest of"status.

The numbers & crowds on weekends more resemble a gym than you can imagine.

You cant turn around without seeing clowns hanging, not climbing.
To risk trying to get paid without the proper sanctions would be nearly impossible to get away with in the three main climbing zones,                                                                                                   those other "climbers" there will snitch you out.

I've met quite a few "guides" in name only. This guy was just a dirty bag making a few bucks taking some friends out.

To guide in NY State for pay (ANY type guide: fishing, hunting, rock climbing, white-water) you need a NY State Guide's License.  While relatively easy to get, you'd be surprised how few "fly by night guides" don't take the simple test.  So if your paying someone to guide you, that's the 2nd thing to ask (after "How long have you been doing this?)  Also, if the guide is doing something "obnoxious" (like hogging a climb normally led with a TR set-up and 15-20 min have passed and no one in his "class" has used the line, AND when you ask "Can I lead past your TR?" and he says "NO !"  Ask to see his NY License....if he can't produce it (at the Gunks, at least) notify the Ranger chances are he'll be told to leave.

That being said, there are many fine guides who don't have even the first level AMGA certification and work "under" someone who does (or higher), [In NY they still need the above license, though].  Most all I have run into are considerate.

As for "Is one year enough?"  Like Mark (above) I'm surprised he didn't "stretch the truth" somewhat; or say something like "almost every day for a year".  Big difference bewteen something like 4-5 days a week for a year and every-other weekend for a year.