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What are the costs of installing and/or replacing permanent anchors?


Original Post
Jeff Lee11 · · Thousand Oaks, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

Saw the comment on this page about how open shut anchor replacement is difficult and labor intensive. I'm wondering about what goes into such repairs. 

Browsing "permanent climbing anchors" on google shows that at least some anchors aren't very expensive. Is the cost pretty much just the time and skilled labor required? 

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

Climbers donating to replacement initiatives like the ASCA, AAC, and their local replacement crews fund anchor replacement for the most part, and those organizations get good deals on bulk purchases. 

As for the time and skilled labor... Dude, that's all volunteer work. No one is getting paid to do anchor replacement as a job. I heard one guy got paid a few thousand recently to do the VRG, and a few others here and there, but by and large its all volunteer work. 

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86

Doing it right is pretty expensive....Most people don't donate time or money. So much of development is from people taking money out of their own pockets. 

Wherever you climb locally start giving them money to keep up with the maintenance. 

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

A lot depends on the context, replacing the bolts on Everest is going to be a lot more expensive than at a local single-pitch cliff with hand-drilling some multi-pitch backcountry route somewhere in between. A recent project I was involved with replacing 1,000 bolts in a sport climbing quarry done by rope-access guys ran in at around $15 per bolt. Top anchors probably $30-$45 depending on what´s being installed. 

I work on a base charge of around $10 per hole + travel/expenses and material for easier cliffs BUT a single top-anchor in a difficult position can easily be half a days work so getting into the $100´s.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,285
Parker Wrozek wrote:

Doing it right is pretty expensive....Most people don't donate time or money. So much of development is from people taking money out of their own pockets. 

Wherever you climb locally start giving them money to keep up with the maintenance. 

"them?"
You mean developers?

Well, if they are replacing stuff with modern stainless, sure, maybe.  But not so that they can just go put more stuff in, esp. if it is plated steel that will need replaced later.

Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 86
Tony B wrote:

"them?"
You mean developers?

Well, if they are replacing stuff with modern stainless, sure, maybe.  But not so that they can just go put more stuff in, esp. if it is plated steel that will need replaced later.

Sorry no. I meant ASCA, BCC (that is who I send money to), RRGCC, etc. The LCO that can actually get things replaced/maintained. 

I have given money directly to people as well. If you want to do that cool. 


I just meant that if you climb in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek you really should be giving money to the BCC to help with bolt maintenance.  Insert wherever you climb normally if not in the Denver/Boulder area.  

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 502
Parker Wrozek wrote:

Sorry no. I meant ASCA, BCC (that is who I send money to), RRGCC, etc. The LCO that can actually get things replaced/maintained. 

I have given money directly to people as well. If you want to do that cool. 


I just meant that if you climb in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek you really should be giving money to the BCC to help with bolt maintenance.  Insert wherever you climb normally if not in the Denver/Boulder area.  

Keep in mind that not all climbing communities have a LCO. If that's the case where you're climbing, and you want to contribute, buy some stainless chain, quicklinks, rings, biners or whatever is used at your crag and either replace stuff yourself or give the hardware to the developer. If you don't want to put in this kind of effort, donate to the ASCA. 

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,285
Parker Wrozek wrote:

Sorry no. I meant ASCA, BCC (that is who I send money to), RRGCC, etc. The LCO that can actually get things replaced/maintained. 

I have given money directly to people as well. If you want to do that cool. 


I just meant that if you climb in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek you really should be giving money to the BCC to help with bolt maintenance.  Insert wherever you climb normally if not in the Denver/Boulder area.  

Understood.
Yep, the BCC has that very active and fruitful program, and also will provide quality SS equipment to developers at pro-form/wholesale prices if they are willing to buy that instead of plated junk.

Full disclosure: I was on the BCC board for several years.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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