Frontrange V10?


Original Post
Ben Wiz · · Boulder, Co · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 10

Boulder resident here, trying to break into V10. Does anyone know of any good ones in the front range or RMNP that feels easy for a V10? I know I'm chasing grades here, but humor me...


Nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 196

The pink route felt pretty soft..


Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 16,610
Ben Wiz wrote: Does anyone know of any good ones in the front range or RMNP that feels easy for a V10? I
All the Front Range V10s have been down-graded to V9. The easy V10s have been down-graded to V8.

For good problems, check out Millenium Boulder

jolewis211 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

Do more abs


Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 40
Monomaniac wrote: All the Front Range V10s have been down-graded to V9. The easy V10s have been down-graded to V8. For good problems, check out Millenium Boulder
Does this area get good cell phone reception?

Jon H · · MD/DC · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 13

Fleshfest is a good 10, but not sure how easy it is for the grade. Bring a bunch of pads. Luckily the crux is low and it's easy to work.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fleshfest/105761031


Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 16,610
Jon H wrote:Fleshfest is a good 10...
Like I said...

Fleshfest deats.

Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,070

Lol Mono, where is the consensus exactly? I can't quite make it out on your pic!!

I don't climb anywhere near that hard but The Nickness in Newlin looks pretty spectacular. Would be a bit of a drive for you though.


D B · · Denver · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 205
Monomaniac wrote: Like I said...
Every front range climb needs a chart to tell you what grade you should take based on holds avoided/your height/the weather that day/your favorite color/etc.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 50
Monomaniac wrote: Like I said...
To be fair, there is a left & right variation to that problem. The left (original/contrived) variation is considered V10 & feels nails (actually, more like crimping on nails) hard. The right variation has always been considered V9 & is probably easy for the grade w/ sufficient reach.

I recommend The Amendment . It's considered V10 but no super hard/tendon wrecking move, is climbable from now until late spring (OK, there is a bit of access issue) & you don't have to defend the grade to your buddies.

D B · · Denver · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 205

Jon Glassberg climbs the right variation here and calls it V10:
https://vimeo.com/9484719

Nina Williams calls it V10 here as well:
https://www.instagram.com/p/ZWhoASCMis/

If you look at any of the front range V10s on 8a, you'll see Paul, Daniel, Dave, etc call them V10, then the grade slowly drops over the years. Sometimes it's because holds break, sometimes because the FA was done in August, sometimes people just get off on sandbagging.


reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 50
D B wrote:Jon Glassberg climbs the right variation here and calls it V10:
Someone of Jon's height/reach should not call that thing V10 (the only hard move he executed is the first right hand move, from a good hold to a good hold. Because of his reach, he didn't even need to bump off the bad intermediary), pure & simple. Even Jstar, all of 5'5", considers it V9. It may actually be V10 for Nina.

D B · · Denver · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 205

It's interesting that height is the only physical attribute used to downgrade boulder problems. Is God's Own Stone 13b if your hands are small? Alternatively, should people with big hands downgrade every sloper problem? Or do we just say that problem suits that person?


Rob T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10

Hand size is frequently a factor in downgrading desert climbs. See Coyne or any other green-red splitter.


reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 50
D B wrote:It's interesting that height is the only physical attribute used to downgrade boulder problems.
I didn't say that. But bouldering is way different from route climbing, where there tend to be more equalizing factors. Even then, Adam Ondra has said because of his relative height (& weight), he cannot compete against shorter (& lighter) climbers on pure resistance routes (in the context of comp sport climbing). When a boulder problem is essential a single reach move, it's not uncommon to have a wide grade range.

Brent Apgar · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 35
D B wrote: Every front range climb needs a chart to tell you what grade you should take based on holds avoided/your height/the weather that day/your favorite color/etc.
I thought that this was the state of bouldering in general these days.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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