Replacing Belay loop?

So im a tall skinny guy, that needs a med harness for the waist width but a large for the extra long belay loop. Im thinking of removing the belay loop, and replacing it with 2 pieces of webbing tied in a water knot. What do yall think is this safe?

Hmann2 wrote:So im a tall skinny guy, that needs a med harness for the waist width but a large for the extra long belay loop. Im thinking of removing the belay loop, and replacing it with 2 pieces of webbing tied in a water knot. What do yall think is this safe?

Are you freakish tall and skinny? I'm 6' 3" with a 31" waist, a medium harness fits me well. I do have adjustable leg loops, not sure it that makes a difference. I wouldn't go down the route you are suggesting, but if you must have a longer belay loop have a harness company replace it for you.

The belay loop is the strongest part of your harness and obviously critically important. I would not make any modifications to the load bearing elements of your harness. Also, a water knot will 1) loosen over time 2) gradually slip requiring there to be long tails on the knot. Not suitable for a belay loop.

I would explore other harness companies for one that fits you better, or have the manufacture make the modification.

Um, why do you need a longer belay loop?

FrankPS wrote:Um, why do you need a longer belay loop?

Because if you don't intentionally break the harness fit by putting your personal anchor system through the tie-in points, its the principle control over rise-length. Just like they sell different rise-length pants, so it goes for harnesses. It can really suck to have a harness that you have to intentionally mis-fit just to safely use.

This is part of the reason why its handy to have a big gear store relatively nearby, so you can go try these things on before you've spent the money on them.

Try and find a place with Metolius harnesses in stock. They have an adjustable rise which might make it work well for you.

muttonface wrote:I would suggest getting a Misty Mountain harness. You'll get a brand new bad ass harness and they'll probably give you a custom belay loop if you request one. Idk if I'd go the webbing route. Seems like whatever knot you use will bind up somewhere, be troublesome, and may have the potential for cross/triaxially loading something. My $.02

Misty will hook you up. Give them a call.

Try out harnesses from other manufacturers. Unless you are circus-freakishly tall and skinny, you'll be able to find one that works.

Might try wearing a women's harness. They tend to be designed around a longer rise. I've had also had difficulty finding a harness that fits, I talked to the folks at Yates and they are willing to sew a longer belay loop on one of their harnesses, if it is a new one and it is before it has left their factory. Good luck

Hmann2 wrote:So im a tall skinny guy, that needs a med harness for the waist width but a large for the extra long belay loop. Im thinking of removing the belay loop, and replacing it with 2 pieces of webbing tied in a water knot. What do yall think is this safe?

No, it is not safe to alter/remove/replace the load-bearing parts of your harness. It was designed and tested to be assembled in a certain fashion, and modifications throw all that out the window. For example, think about how many times you would rub the water knot against the rock or across a sharp edge while climbing. The belay loop was built to handle that type of abuse, while the webbing is far less durable. You could easily compromise the strength of your webbing loop while doing a pitch, not see the damage, then have it fail when you needed to catch a fall.

Try on a bunch of harnesses. I'm sure you'll find something that fits you. If not, call up a manuf. and talk to them about your situation.

Contrary to everyone else - the waterknotted webbing would work and be strong enough and safe so long as you inspect it frequently. It is the belay loop and the loads it is subjected to are lower than taking a fall on a piece of gear on which you have a tied sling.

It would wear out faster and cause some handling issues. It isnt ideal.

I would go with folks suggestion and try to get a custom one made or find a local company to bar tack a loop after market.

Pt

One of the first available harness's as an improvement on 5 wraps of the climbing rope around your waist tied with a bowline on a coil was the Forrest Mountaineering pre-made swami belt with separate leg loops. It was intended that you would attach the leg loop's to the swami waist belt with a section of included 1" tubular webbing tied into a loop with a water knot. As mentioned by others, the knot requires frequent inspection until well set as with top rope slings and then it's very difficult to even intentionally untie. Used through the 70's.

Norman Kirk wrote:One of the first available harness's as an improvement on 5 wraps of the climbing rope around your waist tied with a bowline on a coil was the Forrest Mountaineering pre-made swami belt with separate leg loops. It was intended that you would attach the leg loop's to the swami waist belt with a section of included 1" tubular webbing tied into a loop with a water knot. As mentioned by others, the knot requires frequent inspection until well set as with top rope slings and then it's very difficult to even intentionally untie. Used through the 70's.

It's not 1975, it's 2012. Buy a custom harness.

Jeff Thomas wrote:Try and find a place with Metolius harnesses in stock. They have an adjustable rise which might make it work well for you.

^^^^
THIS

hmann, i have done this on a few harnesses in the past and live to tell about it. And quite frequently have added a second belay loop to my harnesses with a tied piece of webbing when i hang a bunch from a grigri. Its a bit more bulky than you might like, and if you are just looking for a better fitting harness, than keep looking for one. Try petzl harnesses. they fit the slender build, and wear your leg loops where you are supposed to, unless you like getting your sag on.