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does anyone else find putting a training program together confusing

Original Post
mike526 · · schaumburg · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

I'm still trying to find a training program to follow. Just seems rather confusing as to what i should really be doing. DO i follow a 4321 cycle? just climb a lot? which doesnt seem structured or seem to be helping.

Would it be more benificial to run tons of laps on auto belay or top rope to help with technique and endurance then endurance focus on bouldering to help with endurance.

as you can see i'm kinda confused as to how to improve.

IF it matter i'm climbing around 10b/c level on toprope inside, and probably 10a outside. Havent done much leading outside hardest sport lead was a 5.8

wanting to improve but confused as to how to setup a structured program.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 406

Right now you shouldn't be setting up a structured program. Climb as much as you can and lose weight through portion control and light cardio (3-5 mile runs). Weight Waters is a time-proven program.

When you lead 5.12- outside your connective tissue will be ready for a periodized, climbing-specific training program.

The Self-Coached Climber book comes with a great DVD full of technique drills that you can work on from now until 5.12.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,330

You should be doing lots of "mileage", which basically means spend your workout time moving. A big error many people make is spending too much time working routes or problems that are too hard, so they waste a lot of time hanging on the rope rather than climbing. If you have to hang every 5-10 feet up a route, get on something easier. Eventually you'll find you're able to get up harder and harder routes without all the hanging your friends are doing.

The Self Coached Climber is a great suggestion for learning the fundamental techniques. In addition to that, seek "coaching" from better climbers in your gym and you can also watch other climbing videos of top-level climbers, and observe how they move.

CalmAdrenaline · · SL,UT · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 115
urbanclimbermag.com/themag/…

This works well for me.
Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 406

I don't think any hangboard work is appropriate for someone maxing out on 5.10

bouldering is the most efficient way to rack up high milage, but as Mike A says, keep the pace up and don't project anything

Will Spaller · · Ogden, UT · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 65

You don't need a specific program at this point in your climbing career. The best advice I can give you is to pick a few weeks and dedicate them to power or endurance. Mixing power with endurance or vice versa in the same workout will get you no where fast. For example, traversing until failure after a hard bouldering session is acually counter productive due to the lactic acid built up from going until failure. If I were you I would do 4 weeks of power (bouldering) take a week or so off, then do about 4 week of endurance and see where that gets you.

Chris Sepic · · Bend, OR · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 45

I agree with everyone's advice. Mileage is really key. I struggled with breaking into the 10s until I decided to just climb a boatload of 9s, and focus on climbing them well - no desperate moves and good technique. I've started doing climbing pyramids too which are explained in the SCC book. Basically they boil down to climbing a bunch of routes at your level. For example, you might try climbing eight 9s, four 10a, two 10b and one 10c. The catch is you have to finish all the 9s before moving on to the 10as.

Also check out "9 Out Of 10 Climbers Make The Same Mistakes" by Dan McLeod. It's less about specific exercises and more of a general philosophy of how to improve. Great advice for noobs like myself!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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