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Ascending a fixed line

Original Post
vincenzoolllllllo · · VT · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5

I am going to do some soloing. I am thinking about fixing my 10.5 dynamic and then attaching to it with a petzl basic ascender and a prussic. As I move I assume they will follow if I coil the rope and let it hang a foot or 2 off the ground? Anyone done this is there an easier way. This seems the most straight forward to me.

Thanks

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

So then you aren't really ascending a fixed line. You are self belaying on a fixed line, aka toprope solo. There are a lot of ways to do it and a lot of ways it has been done. I have never tried any of them, but thought the nomenclature might help you search.

EB · · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,253

fix rope at the top with figure 8 on a bight/dog ear 8/ bowline on a bite at the mid point of rope(2 strands hanging down). hang a pack on the end with just a bit of slack to allow lateral movement and attach device on one of two ropes hanging. mini traxion is preferred to ascender. if not able to send, simply attach belay device to other non weighted rope and detach solo device and lower. the same scenario is worked out at the top.

DFrench · · Cape Ann · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 465

Definitely do some forum searching on TR soloing methods, you will find LOTS of information.

I do it similarly to EB but with one big difference. I use a Cinch on one strand and my MiniTraxion on the other, hanging off my belay loop from a 10" sling as the back-up. Both devices are attached to my belay loop using DMM belaymaster biners to avoid cross-loading

Climb to the top, the Cinch feeds effortlessly (so does the MTrax) and when you get there or if you pump out just sit on the rope on the Cinch. Since the MT is extended it does NOT lock up (it remains unweighted) so you can easily disengage the teeth on the Trax and rappel on the Cinch easy as pie. There is not attaching or unattaching of belay devices and there is no weighting of the rope on the teeth of the MTrax unless the Cinch fails in a fall (VERY unlikely). Furthermore, when using the Cinch as your primary device you will never *forget* to engage the teeth on the MiniTrax (yes it has happened to me).

Couldn't be happier with the above setup, feel free to PM me if you want more info, but if you search the forums you should be set.

Mike Soucy · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 111

Vince,
Try to avoid using anything with teeth on it. Falling on an ascender with a toothed cam is pretty bad for your rope. I'd second the recommendation of using a Grigri or Cinch with catastrophe knots every ten feet or so.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,099

I use a grigri for this purpose all the time when I am exploring for new routes by myself. I rap down and climb back up, using one hand to pull the rope through when comfortable and not allowing too much slack to build up. I have done routes up to mid 13 in this manner. When I get to a good stance I might throw in another knot below the grigri just to make sure there is no chance of a grounder if something weird happens and the rope slips through. I have never had the grigri not catch me right away though, in many years of doing this. Just remember, if you are alone and swinging around and the tail of the rope gets caught, making the rope get tight, it could leave you stuck there, with it very difficult to move up or down. I always have a left hand ascender with me when doing this so I can get back up if I end up hanging out in space, also a knife if I am way out in the middle of nowhere by myself for an emergency to cut the rope below me if it was completely jammed and I couldn't move at all( luckily I have never had to use it. If I did, it would obviously be freaky and I would be attached to the ascender above the grigri and crapping my pants).

Personally, I wouldn't want to completely trust my life on a single ascender if I could help it, even with a prussic, especially after reading about the counterfeit ones out there. They aren't designed to be catching dynamic falls. Also, remember if you are on lower angle stuff the grigri has more chance to not catch you right away.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

I recommend a petzl rescuescender or microscender. No teeth allows for dynamic slippage and the rope moves freely. Also completely encloses the rope so a back up knot is bomber.

vincenzoolllllllo · · VT · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5

Thanks for the replys I like the idea of the rescue ascender might have to pick one of those up. I will also try out the grigri with backup knots. Thanks for the help.

jafrizza · · Golden CO · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 75
mountainproject.com/v/gener…

i asked a question about an ascender and got a pretty good diagram in the comments check it out
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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