What is this route in Tahquitz West Face?

Hey everyone. We started climbing the little gully of Fingertip Traverse, but instead of going left we (I) mistakenly went up to this blocky roof (big move) and zig zagged to the Jungle ledge with the rap station. Does anyone know if this is a route or an alternative to one? I couldn't find it on MP or the falcoln guidebook that we had. Appreciate any insights! P.S. new to trad, still working on route finding. - mar.

I don't think there is any route that way. The stuff below the Jungle has nothing through it. If you are a bit right from the first pitch of Fingertip, the left facing big dihedral is Finger Grip (5.8). Hoping you had fun on that variation.

Cheers, Alois.

I noticed a bolted route that zigzags up to jungle ledge right of the start to Fingertip Traverse. It looked "new" to me and my partner, but we also hadn't climbed that face in a while so I can't say how new exactly. Looked like moderate slab, but we didn't climb it. There was also a new (to us) line of bolts that went up the arete to the right of the start to P3 of El Camino. Also totally possible these have been around forever and I just never noticed. 

nathanaelwrote:

I noticed a bolted route that zigzags up to jungle ledge right of the start to Fingertip Traverse. It looked "new" to me and my partner, but we also hadn't climbed that face in a while so I can't say how new exactly. Looked like moderate slab, but we didn't climb it. There was also a new (to us) line of bolts that went up the arete to the right of the start to P3 of El Camino. Also totally possible these have been around forever and I just never noticed. 

Dos Equis Direct

Pitch 1 is 10c, Pitch 2 is 11a

mar ssswrote:

Hey everyone. We started climbing the little gully of Fingertip Traverse, but instead of going left we (I) mistakenly went up to this blocky roof (big move) and zig zagged to the Jungle ledge with the rap station. Does anyone know if this is a route or an alternative to one? I couldn't find it on MP or the falcoln guidebook that we had. Appreciate any insights! P.S. new to trad, still working on route finding. - mar.

Looks like the start of the original Dos Equis route

Bob Gaineswrote:

Dos Equis Direct

Pitch 1 is 10c, Pitch 2 is 11a

Thanks Bob! Looked cool, will have to check it out. The start of p2 looked exciting, but well protected. 

nathanaelwrote:

Thanks Bob! Looked cool, will have to check it out. The start of p2 looked exciting, but well protected. 

Yes, that's the crux, and it's well protected. It gets exciting up higher on the pitch (10c PG), with high-quality rock. That pitch can also be easily toproped from a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the pitch that can be accessed by climbing up and right from the El Camino bolt anchor.

Ahh thanks for all your replies! It was a fun variation, Alois, but uh.. surprising... I was expecting some chill 5.6 climbing. One day I'll get to that 10a layback 😂

Bob, on the Dos Equis route description (P1), it says "head left across face climbing and a bush to another crack system with 5.9 climbing and some bushes. Stop Below Jungle ledge and belay." Is this drawing more or less the right interpretation?

mar ssswrote:

Bob, on the Dos Equis route description (P1), it says "head left across face climbing and a bush to another crack system with 5.9 climbing and some bushes. Stop Below Jungle ledge and belay." Is this drawing more or less the right interpretation?

Looks about right, although the Dos Equis Direct is a much better pitch up to Jungle Ledge.

Amazing :) I appreciate the recommendation for the direct route! Gotta love the bolts.