Grand Teton Camping

Early permits are coming available soon. Looking to do the OS or upper Exum. Trying to decide should I get permits for Meadows, Moraine, Caves or Lower Saddle. Pros and cons for each. Hauling up full backpacking gear up 5,000 ft to the lower saddle isn't very appealing however, being able to see the route the day before is appealing along with the views. Of course we could camp at one of the lower sites and the day we hike in hike up to the saddle and scout it out. Also getting that route down since we will be doing it in the dark on summit day if we do stay lower. How many camp spots would you say are at each location?  I have a group of 8 going. Some doing OS and others doing Upper Exum. And if we strike out some of us are definitely willing to do it as a full day hike /climb. And also try for walk-up permits. Plan on being in Jackson midweek either first or 3rd week of August. 

I stayed at the Meadows 4 years ago to do middle and lower. We saw a few climbers there who did do OS the next day. Would like to hear some thoughts from those who have experienced some of these options.

My preference is to bivi as high as possible to make summit day as short as possible and to aid in acclimation. The lower saddle is not a bad spot. Many of the tent sites are protected by rock walls and water is available.

If you're planning doing additonal routes like Middle Teton, Irene's Arete, etc., then lower bivi sites make more sense.

My .02:

Meadows

Pros are it’s the shortest hike with bivi gear, great spots, running water. Cons are it’s still a big hike to tag the grand summit the next day.

Caves

Pros are decent sites, possibly no tent needed, running water. Good happy medium between a long hike with bivi gear vs. long summit day. Cons for me is I’ve never successfully gotten a site there, maybe there are less available.

Moraines

Pros are running water (back toward the caves) Good happy medium between a long hike with bivi gear vs. long summit day. Cons are the sites aren’t great except the one under the big rock.

Lower saddle

Pros are running water, decent sites, great views, good look at the approach, descent. Cons are it’s the biggest hike (plus a fixed rope 4th class bit) with bivy gear. It also seems like it’s the windiest spot.

No need to scout either route, nor is it reasonable to go up for a look after setting a lower camp. Both routes will be crawling with people starting before the sun comes up. You'll likely be able to follow others.

Eight folks is a bunch. That's about the max allowed at the caves. My preference is to camp high. My guess is the hump to the saddle may be tough for your group. There are a decent number of sites in the moraine and they are well sheltered though generally not as large or flat as the saddle camps. If you think your group is strong get a decent start and go for the saddle. 

Iz K wrote:

I personally dislike anything above the Caves, as it rather windy and usually prone to foot traffic. Why haul all that crap up there when there are better options lower.

Meadows are great, with running water. Also good if you’re tagging other classic (e.g., Open Book, Irene’s, etc.). Solid sites. Plenty of room for 8.

Caves are the best, as you can bivy without a tent and have access to water. From the Caves to the lower saddle, it’s about 1ish hours. Limited sites.

You’ll have good views anywhere.

Are you actually camping in the caves? And how many can camp there?

Please consider the feasibility of a group of 8 on that mountain, particularly on routes like the OS and Upper Exum.

Unless you are all splitting up and climbing independently in pairs or 3’s, it’s nearly impossible for you to move well in a group of that size. At best you would really impact the experience for others on the mountain, much worse if you have an accident or encounter an expected change in the weather and need to move quickly  

Even if it’s allowed, your group size is not realistic for any singular campsite in the areas you’re considering. You would need a couple sites. 

NateCwrote:

Please consider the feasibility of a group of 8 on that mountain, particularly on routes like the OS and Upper Exum.

Unless you are all splitting up and climbing independently in pairs or 3’s, it’s nearly impossible for you to move well in a group of that size. At best you would really impact the experience for others on the mountain, much worse if you have an accident or encounter an expected change in the weather and need to move quickly  

Even if it’s allowed, your group size is not realistic for any singular campsite in the areas you’re considering. You would need a couple sites. 

Yes, we have already thought of that. It's looking like 4 of us are doing upper Exum. Planning on splitting that into to two groups of 2.  The other 4 may do the same on OS. They all are capable to go without ropes on the OS. And are currently talking about doing just that. Though will have one for the rappel if they choose to descend that way or for the possibility of snow/ice above the upper saddle.  I know the four of them could move pretty quickly through most of those pitches vs a roped up group. But we were thinking if they go in groups of 2 on the OS Maybe some of the climbing guided groups will give them an opportunity to go by them since they aren't roping up. I've heard that's kind of the polite thing to do up there. I'm guessing they would be more open to it than if there were 4 of them. 

So for eight tents/bivys your saying we can't find room at any of the campsites?  I heard lower s had 17.. I stayed at the Meadows and we had 7 tents and there were other spots available.  But caves and moraine wouldn't?  

I'm still going back and forth about taking an ultralight tent or doing a bivvy. When I was there the second week of August in 2000 we got snow and hail throughout one of the nights. And that was at The Meadows. I was glad I had a tent 🙃

"So for eight tents/bivys your saying we can't find room at any of the campsites?  I heard lower s had 17.. I stayed at the Meadows and we had 7 tents and there were other spots available.  But caves and moraine wouldn't?"

The saddle and moraine can both accommodate that number of sites. You are at about the limit for the caves, however. I bet if you look on the nps website it will confirm this. 

Iz K wrote:

You guys can’t buddy up in a tent? 8 sites / tents for 8 people is lame, especially in August.

Unless they slept on top of me.. No.  Though some may have two man tents..I don't know how large the sites are. Of course we can share a site if it fits two tents. And would.

8 is insane group size for this objective and borderline disrespectful to others. OS group should just day trip. 

Regardless of which spot you choose, your group will have to spread out. None of these camp areas have a site that will fit more than maybe 4 bodies. I went with a group of 5 a few years back and we had to occupy two sites, 3/2, in the moraine. We also split up for our climbing day.

You should make an effort to cuddle up and minimize your spread as much as possible.

Sounds like you're already planning to split up on your climbing day - good call. That's the right thing to do considering the other climbers and potentially sketchy weather/other risks.

My .02 is to stay at the Moraine. Sure, it's maybe not the prettiest, but you'll have water and you won't have to do much more walking beyond the caves. The hike after the caves is the worst of it (imo), so if you can end your day after that steepness, it's nice. I've hiked all of my gear to the saddle a few times and it's been nice on summit day, but I wouldn't do that again unless you're spending 2+ nights up there. It just doesn't feel worthwhile. I did thoroughly enjoy having the extra night at the saddle. We were able to skip the crazy alpine start, avoid most of the crowds, and ultimately make our summit days super casual and enjoyable. Obviously the risk here is afternoon storms, so check your weather etc. etc.

Overall, the OS group would be better suited to wake up wicked early and do it in a day. I'm a firm believer anymore that you either do the GT in a day, or do it in 3. Overnighting just feels like a silly amount of effort when you can camp in a beautiful spot for one more night and have a much more pleasant experience. That said - overnighting from the Moraine would probably be the best compromise. Bring earplugs.

Luke Lindemanwrote:

Regardless of which spot you choose, your group will have to spread out. None of these camp areas have a site that will fit more than maybe 4 bodies. I went with a group of 5 a few years back and we had to occupy two sites, 3/2, in the moraine. We also split up for our climbing day.

You should make an effort to cuddle up and minimize your spread as much as possible.

Sounds like you're already planning to split up on your climbing day - good call. That's the right thing to do considering the other climbers and potentially sketchy weather/other risks.

My .02 is to stay at the Moraine. Sure, it's maybe not the prettiest, but you'll have water and you won't have to do much more walking beyond the caves. The hike after the caves is the worst of it (imo), so if you can end your day after that steepness, it's nice. I've hiked all of my gear to the saddle a few times and it's been nice on summit day, but I wouldn't do that again unless you're spending 2+ nights up there. It just doesn't feel worthwhile. I did thoroughly enjoy having the extra night at the saddle. We were able to skip the crazy alpine start, avoid most of the crowds, and ultimately make our summit days super casual and enjoyable. Obviously the risk here is afternoon storms, so check your weather etc. etc.

Overall, the OS group would be better suited to wake up wicked early and do it in a day. I'm a firm believer anymore that you either do the GT in a day, or do it in 3. Overnighting just feels like a silly amount of effort when you can camp in a beautiful spot for one more night and have a much more pleasant experience. That said - overnighting from the Moraine would probably be the best compromise. Bring earplugs.

Thanks! We definitely plan on putting as many tents as possible in a site. And I'm leaning towards the Caves or Moraines so the advice is very helpful. And our goal is getting two nights. Coming from Vegas that just feels smart so we can acclimate and it gives us a 2 day window to summit if weather dictates it. Also gives us the option of doing another peak. (I'm considering disappointment as I've been on Middle but others want to do middle) 

Once again, thanks for the detailed reply

J W wrote:

8 people. Four on OS, four on Upper Exum. Two groups of two for each objective.

Disrespectful? Think harder.

There’s not a single additional impact to other climbers compared to a similar number of unrelated parties. 

Have fun on the mountain, Rob!

Thanks for saying what was on my mind

J W wrote:

8 people. Four on OS, four on Upper Exum. Two groups of two for each objective.

Disrespectful? Think harder.

There’s not a single additional impact to other climbers compared to a similar number of unrelated parties. 

Have fun on the mountain, Rob!

This. 

There are only so many permit spots available so it is irrelevant if they go to you or someone else. 

I did Petzoldt to Exum this August and there were easily 200 people who summited that day. The vast majority were doing it in a day and half of those would be classified as trail runners rather than climbers. 

If hauling gear to the Lowe saddle is not appealing climbing the grand may not be an appropriate choice.

That said, one could split the hike into two days. Which given the group size is probably a good choice. A night at the meadows and a night or two at the saddle. Both areas will allow people to be in close proximity. The caves as well. The moraine so much.

As for climbing the OS without a rope. As you noted the issue is exposure and ice. The chimneys will have ice. Other areas perhaps. 

Few comments:

you can garauntee walk up permits by arriving at Jenny lake ranger station 1 hour before it opens. Have two people from your party there to reserve two slots for your group size.

Nothing wrong with having 8 people don’t listen to the complainers.

second, someone mentioned worry about ice on OS but you said your going the first or third week of August, ice is unlikely. Watch the forecast, and also ask the ranger about conditions but imo there definitely most likely.

Josh Hoywrote:

Few comments:

you can garauntee walk up permits by arriving at Jenny lake ranger station 1 hour before it opens. Have two people from your party there to reserve two slots for your group size.

Nothing wrong with having 8 people don’t listen to the complainers.

second, someone mentioned worry about ice on OS but you said your going the first or third week of August, ice is unlikely. Watch the forecast, and also ask the ranger about conditions but imo there definitely most likely.

Awesome! Thanks for the reply!  We are missing a couple permits on one of the days so we are planning that. Good to know we only need to be there an hour early! 

My understanding you show up the day before? Or same day. If we miss out I have two folks in incredible shape that can do it in a day😁

Rob Robinsonwrote:

Awesome! Thanks for the reply!  We are missing a couple permits on one of the days so we are planning that. Good to know we only need to be there an hour early! 

My understanding you show up the day before? Or same day. If we miss out I have two folks in incredible shape that can do it in a day😁

As said above, I would not plan for an hour before. The day before, especially as August is prime season. Not too mention you are trying to fill in some blanks. I would not take the caution about ice in August lightly. It is often present but avoidable if careful. As JW notes, I too have seen ice below the Upper Saddle. Usually after a cold August storm.

Yeah, day before, but one hour before the ranger station opens, is what I meant. Always had success with walkups this way.

J W wrote:

Day before.

An hour early might guarantee you a spot. Last time I was there (2023), I was 90 minutes early and was third in line, arriving just ahead of three other parties.

A bit of ice in the chimneys isn’t an uncommon occurrence in the third week of August. More summers than not, there’s a late summer storm that brings a little snow and ice—generally in the latter part of August to early September. Some years it’s earlier. Some years, later. Sometimes it’s slick for a day or two. Sometimes it’s icy for the rest of the year.

You can definitely manage to climb around it, but know that it’s a legitimate possibility.

Lots of people on here with much more experience than I have so if I’m overstating the above, I welcome being corrected. But 3 of the 4 times (all 4 times were around August 20th) I’ve been on the Grand were icy—two were icy enough that we bailed (once, even before the upper Saddle!).

Thank you very much for the reply. We have it the first week of August. So fingers crossed on no ice!  We will be taking rope , harness and cams just in case for that possibility on the OS. Even though those of us that are doing that route will be free climbing. Always good to be prepared just in case.

J W wrote:

Your post was clear. Glad you always had success!

I’m just adding that the last time I was there, if I had shown up an hour before opening (the day before), I would’ve walked away without a permit. Maybe it was unusually busy that day (at the station on a Wednesday for a Thursday climb).

As we are coming from Vegas we are not going to take a chance so we will be there at least 90 minutes early. Or those that are okay doing it in a da.. It's up to them. I'm not going to get up that early. 🙃 I did my work. If they don't score their permits then it's on them. Day hike it'll be 😁... And they'll be fine with that. Though I think they'd rather hang out with us after a hike up on the mountain.