Best partner quote(s)?
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"Shut the fuck up!" My partner's response after I told him "you're going to deck if you fall" while runout 45 feet up. And that was the day that I learned that leaders don't always want the truth from their belayer. |
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The low consequence scramble down from the summit to the rap anchor is one at a time, and since I hadn't untied yet, my partner who has must of the rope in a big pile by his shoulders says in the dumbest shaka-bro voice, "Dude, you're on hip belay!" (a few seconds later) "Oh shit dude! You're on neck belay!" |
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A friend of mine who is a brand new climber is stuck and I yell to her: “use the undercling!” She yells back: “how?” Me: “….cling it! …from under!” Equally as helpful, and this would always make me laugh, calling down to my belayer “I’m scared!” And her calling back: “ok!” |
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1) After a little runout midway up the short first pitch, I got the pleasure of clipping a 40-year old (east coast) pin. My partner said: "You're back on belay". 2) After placing a funky blue tricam: "Better clip this thing before it falls out". 3) Me and my partner at the base looking at a mid-size tree on the ground that had recently fallen off the cliff: - "Do you know how it fell?" (inquiring if there was a story in the community or on MP about someone inadvertently pulling it off) - "Not sure. But I bet gravity was involved." |
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In 1973 when Bev Johnson and Sibylle Hechtel became the first women team to climb El Capitan , a Spanish team above them fell off and flew down by them ! Bev was supposed to have said " You don't see that everyday " . |
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In the Fisher's, looking up at the next pitch, "Not my pitch, not my problem" |
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I said, "Watch me here, buddy!" And my partner replied, "That's OK, I've done this route before!"
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Leading on thin hooks on an El Cap wall: "Watch me!!" Partner: "Watch you *what*...Fall?? Bwahahahaha!!!!" |
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Not from my partner but from a team we passed on Mt. Baker "Just give me a sec man, I need to decluster my fuck" |
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Text exchange about big wall bathrooming: Newb: Do you pee on the ledge or do you sort of pee on the side and let the wind fly it away or trickle down the face. Do you pee in a bottle and then wait for the right time to dump it? Is a rain fly necessary because i might be sprayed with pee at any time? Do i want to avoid sleeping on ledges cuz they smell like pee? Do I need to learn how to pee standing up? Trad Dad: As a beneficiary of male privilege, I pee in almost every configuration imaginable: standing, kneeling, mid squat while engaged in number two. As for urination while considering atmospheric along with geologic conditions, it is truly situational. On ledges, I typically try for the extreme edges so that I avoid contaminating a nice spot for my fellow climbers. Wind, is always a factor. Without careful consideration one may find themselves coated in their own urine, a most unpleasant scenario. Even then, the urine will dry soon enough, though the odor will likely endure. There are times when peeing in a bottle for later disposal is preferred. Depending on the bottle, this can be precarious. I’m sure you’ve witnessed the astounding male propensity to miss the toilet bowl, a rather large target. Now imaging the precision required for a typical bottle opening. Add in gear, awkward stances, wind, and an impatient partner and you can imagine all sorts of unsavory scenario. I could continue to expound at length on the subject, though this brief outline should provide you with enough insight to accomplish your bigwall objectives. |
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Words of encouragement from my partner on a sketchy downclimb in Eldo to a tree to rap off of... "Don't worry it's chill.... I mean if you fuck it up you die but it's fine." LOL, thanks man... He and I also now will look at each other and loudly exclaim "bamboozled!" When we get in a situation that's harder than expected. |
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Larry Morganwrote: We do that with "shambles" whenever our gear is not organized |
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"What, do you want to live forever?" My partner when I express concern over leading a pitch. |
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‘5.8+ my ass!’ Said on a on offwidth established in 1974 on the North Shore of Minnesota. |
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Gunkser, on his first 5.7 OW at Vedauwoo: "Would be 10+ in the Gunks!" |
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The quotableTom Grundy On slab climbing: Put your foot where you want it. Stand on it. Pretend it’s good. After falling and then yarding on the rope: I’m invoking the high point clause. After listening to me and belaying me on a trad project: Cheating, whining and hanging. That’s the triumvirate. I think you are ready for sport climbing. |
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Layton Kor used to say this in the 1960s: "Better let me lead this pitch. I'm not married." |
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Sam Ehmannwrote: I live and die by this rule unironically my brother Tal has a great line for encouragement for a partner trying hard instead of the standard “come on! Come on! You got it come on!” he says “show some pride!” And I love that. Cool idea to focus on a proud effort when trying hard |
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"All climbing is either alpine climbing or training for alpine climbing." -Me |




