New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #40

Daniel Shivelywrote:

I‘ve seen some wobbly characters on that climb. Thankfully, as far as I know, nobody has whipped from high on any of the borderline solos at the Buttermilks. Is Mick‘s guide that you mentioned the pamphlet style one c. 2000 or so? 

Our visit yesterday was an interesting juxtaposition of our era and the modern era of bouldering. We were still rolling with pads, shoes, chalk, water, and food. A lot of the youngsters we met had elaborate warm-up devices, chalk for inside their shoes?, and beta videos for most of the problems they were trying. Some even carried folding chairs and self massage devices for in between attempts. lol Regardless of style, we were all just climbers in a beautiful place, trying to figure it all out. 

Yes, that guide.  Mick and I collaborated on my first Rumney guide in the 90’s.  Paula and I had coffee with him every morning at his house on that trip.  I don’t remember the name, but there is a great legitimate VB highball at the Druid Stones that I did that trip.  Also flashed several killer V4’s up there.  I liked it because it wasn’t as crowded (like nobody) up there because of the hike, but that has probably changed.

Brian in SLCwrote:

Fun!  In the Stonemasters section, "Rob Muir" should be "Robs Muir."  

The '56 guidebook:

First time the "Yosemite" decimal system in a guidebook?

Interesting that the aid climbing ratings didn't sustain...

Great history!

Yes, that was the first time the decimal system was used in a guidebook. As far as the decimal grades for aid climbing, they didn't last long--those doing aid routes felt that there were too many 'categories' and that 5 were sufficient--with A0 being introduced later--usually for single aid points, if I understood correctly.

At that time there were multiple other grading systems in use across the country--and at least a couple of others were developed over the next few years, but the TDS/YDS was the one that, over the next few years, became generally accepted. This was was happening even though it was not for almost another decade that it appeared in other guidebooks and despite the fact that most of the folks applying those grades to their home areas, in that time period,  had never climbed at either Tahquitz or Yosemite---hence the various, often still debated, 'interpretations' of those grades in different areas!!!

Dragons I thought about you quite strongly on Sunday! I just spent 3 days climbing with Barbara L in the Alabama Hills. It's almost all new to her, she's only been there one other time.The weather was cold for me, highs around 60 and sunny, which of course feels perfect in the sun. That first day we climbed at a sunny area called the Candy Store and we did 11 pitches.  I was thinking, damn, Dragons need to climb someplace like this to get her pitch count up! Of course a lot of the routes in A-Hills are pretty short so those pitches were only 40-50 feet each.  But hey, if you're counting pitches, it's a goodly number.

As typical, I did not take any climbing action photos but Barb took this one of me at some anchors prepping to get down:

These are typical views of the Sierra from the climbing:

Some really fun routes there in the Hills. Unfortunately so many of the best ones are north facing so not always perfect when it’s cold and windy. Seems like the new book has a ton of unknown ( to me anyway) short trad routes that will be fun to check out.

I've definitely done some great trad there. But I've always found the area bewildering and the names of routes won't stick in my head anymore. Many were just yards from some parking spot. Love that place.

Norm Larsonwrote:

Some really fun routes there in the Hills. Unfortunately so many of the best ones are north facing so not always perfect when it’s cold and windy. Seems like the new book has a ton of unknown ( to me anyway) short trad routes that will be fun to check out.

Arizona tower sure has some nice rock on the north side.

The best stone is usually found on the north facing sides of the formations. Once you understand the place you can run the sun/shade optimization protocol. No wind is key.

Norm… lots of cracks to be found in the maze of rocks up-hill behind the “out front” formations.
I will be amazed if Marty has many of those listed because describing the approach seems almost impossible to me. But then again Marty knows guidebooks.

James Harvey wrote:

My better half gearing up for the rugged approach to Candy Store. Ha!

Ha ha, yeah I don't think we did an approach longer than 3 minutes on each day. This time of year, it's a fun place to climb.  I tend to get there more often when it's hot and we are seeking the north faces, which as Guy says, tends to have the longer, better routes. I love to explore new areas so we spent one day in the "Eastern Choss" area, which is all new to me with this new guidebook.  We did indeed find some prime choss. One crack route I led, Barb told me I was raining rubble on her the whole route!

What do you do when you've got two goals, and there's a conflict between them? My goals are (1) "have fun" and (2) "climb more".

Going climbing at Safe Harbor addressed both of those goals. I'd never been to Safe Harbor before. It was fun getting on a whole lot of new climbs with Tim. I even got an onsight, which is so rare for me these days! If I hadn't had that goal to climb more, then I doubt I'd have gone climbing at Safe Harbor this year. It was that goal that pushed me to get out somewhere new. For that adventure, my goals were perfectly aligned.

However, I needed 2 more pitches this year in order to beat my previous all-time record number of pitches in a year. Yesterday, just after returning from Safe Harbor, we got a soaking rain here - no climbing for me! As a result, today, the cliffs were socked in all day long. OTOH it was 55°F, and it might not get that warm again before the new year. Who knows?

So we went out this afternoon and set up a TR on Black Fly. I got in 2 laps. It was not fun. The rock was soaking wet, which is really not my thing (believe it or not, we saw people on Jackie and Horseman). "Climb more" won out over "have fun" today.

Phylp, that Alabama Hills pic looks extra wonderful in comparison to our weather today!

Happy Thanksgiving, all! And thanks for the supportive comments on getting to my goal for the year!

",,,in order to beat my previous all-time record number..."

I've been beating my older daughter for the last few years.

She counts the number of snow boarding days she gets per year and I count the number of days climbing (damn, the apple doesn't fall far from the tree).

Of course she has a full time job still (but in Truckee - big winters there).

No one knows the origins of highball bouldering. There is a video of Honnold going up boulders at Bleau that are 25 feet or so, but I have no idea when those longer problems were first done. Here is a climber on Gash Rock in England about 1890. 

If one equates HB bouldering with one pitch free solos the mystery deepens. Then there is the question of HB ethics, and whether top ropes violate any sort of philosophical boundaries. But then climbing itself has no inviolable rules and we set our own parameters, personal guidelines that give meaning to the sport - a very existential enterprise. Seeking flow on modest terrain, or the stimulation of number chasing, or the ultimate commitment of unprotected exploration - or any other more subtle mindset. It's a game like few others. 

dragonswrote:

What do you do when you've got two goals, and there's a conflict between them? My goals are (1) "have fun" and (2) "climb more".

Going climbing at Safe Harbor addressed both of those goals. I'd never been to Safe Harbor before. It was fun getting on a whole lot of new climbs with Tim. I even got an onsight, which is so rare for me these days! If I hadn't had that goal to climb more, then I doubt I'd have gone climbing at Safe Harbor this year. It was that goal that pushed me to get out somewhere new. For that adventure, my goals were perfectly aligned.

However, I needed 2 more pitches this year in order to beat my previous all-time record number of pitches in a year. Yesterday, just after returning from Safe Harbor, we got a soaking rain here - no climbing for me! As a result, today, the cliffs were socked in all day long. OTOH it was 55°F, and it might not get that warm again before the new year. Who knows?

So we went out this afternoon and set up a TR on Black Fly. I got in 2 laps. It was not fun. The rock was soaking wet, which is really not my thing (believe it or not, we saw people on Jackie and Horseman). "Climb more" won out over "have fun" today.

Phylp, that Alabama Hills pic looks extra wonderful in comparison to our weather today!

Happy Thanksgiving, all! And thanks for the supportive comments on getting to my goal for the year!

So, if I still remember how to do simple addition, it appears that with your wet efforts yesterday, you surpassed your old total and have attained your goal of a new total number of pitches for the year. Congratulations Dragons. I'm sure that you will find the time---and better conditions, in the remaining weeks of the year to add to your new total.

John Gillwrote:

No one knows the origins of highball bouldering. There is a video of Honnold going up boulders at Bleau that are 25 feet or so, but I have no idea when those longer problems were first done. Here is a climber on Gash Rock in England about 1890. 

If one equates HB bouldering with one pitch free solos the mystery deepens. Then there is the question of HB ethics, and whether top ropes violate any sort of philosophical boundaries. But then climbing itself has no inviolable rules and we set our own parameters, personal guidelines that give meaning to the sport - a very existential enterprise. Seeking flow on modest terrain, or the stimulation of number chasing, or the ultimate commitment of unprotected exploration - or any other more subtle mindset. It's a game like few others. 

Could that be Al Rubin🤪. John your points on ethics are very well stated. Thanks as this should be applied to all aspects of climbing. Climb for your own personal reasons but be honest about what you do. 

John Gillwrote:

No one knows the origins of highball bouldering. There is a video of Honnold going up boulders at Bleau that are 25 feet or so, but I have no idea when those longer problems were first done. Here is a climber on Gash Rock in England about 1890. 

If one equates HB bouldering with one pitch free solos the mystery deepens. Then there is the question of HB ethics, and whether top ropes violate any sort of philosophical boundaries. But then climbing itself has no inviolable rules and we set our own parameters, personal guidelines that give meaning to the sport - a very existential enterprise. Seeking flow on modest terrain, or the stimulation of number chasing, or the ultimate commitment of unprotected exploration - or any other more subtle mindset. It's a game like few others. 

Given the poor ropes, lack of/limited protection options, and minimal safety techniques in the 19th century ( and the earlier decades of the 20th), pretty much any climb was effectively a 'high ball'.

No, J Westgate, not me, I was as risk adverse in the 19th Century as I am in the 21st!!! 

Happy thanksgiving everyone.. Isa is with her daughter and grandchild in Maine and I miss her but my sister has a big shindig just a few miles down the road so I will make a pie and head over there this evening. I hope you all have a good place to be today.

Yesterdays trail work.

it’s unseasonably warm here today… If you’re a turkey.

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

Nick, what kind of pie?  Post up a picture of it as proof.

Carl. You looked pretty dapper in your new drawers. The ladies must be swarming. Happy whatever it is you do there on this day.    

Alan Rubinwrote:

So, if I still remember how to do simple addition, it appears that with your wet efforts yesterday, you surpassed your old total and have attained your goal of a new total number of pitches for the year. Congratulations Dragons. I'm sure that you will find the time---and better conditions, in the remaining weeks of the year to add to your new total.

That's right, thanks Al! I hope there will be some climbable days before the year ends, but right now it's not looking good. And part of the difficulty will be finding people who are willing to climb in relatively colder temps. 10-day forecast ranges from partly cloudy and cold to mixed precipitation. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

James Harvey wrote:

Love the Monkey Dihedral!!! One of my favorites!! I know the start sequence with my palm in my sleep now after 30 years!!!

I agree James, a cool problem on a great boulder.

Mr Gill, your thoughtful words have been a beautiful contribution to the world and specifically climbing. Thank You 

Ward, I agree about the Druid Stones. It is a beautiful spot to boulder and still not super popular or crowded. 

Dragons, way to persevere through the wet conditions to achieve your goal. 

Happy Thanksgiving to all. 

dragonswrote:

That's right, thanks Al! I hope there will be some climbable days before the year ends, but right now it's not looking good. And part of the difficulty will be finding people who are willing to climb in relatively colder temps. 10-day forecast ranges from partly cloudy and cold to mixed precipitation. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Just remember, dragons, anything you add to your total this year will make next year that much harder.   

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

I’m very thankful just to have another year of climbing.

Dragons…. You’re an inspiration to me! Getting it done in cold and wet conditions- outstanding achievement.

Later all.