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Hand pump on 0.75

Chris Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 15
grug gwrote:

So much of becoming an intermediate skilled crack climber is your feet building tolerance. "

Anything for this except slowly building mileage?

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

In my experience milage is the only way to build up the tolerance. If you gym has cracks that is sooooo good for foot tolerance. 

Jared E · · CO-based healthcare traveler · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 417

Thump for me feels like it comes from slightly loose hand crack where I need to squeeze my thumb pad part of my palm in to make a mild cup. Feels more like a cramp than pump. Never felt like it was from gloves cutting off circulation or anything, and also don’t feel improvement despite frequent exposure to this size. Thoughts or prayers?

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,300

The hard part about getting advice from the internet as it relates to crack climbing is that the size of the crack does not determine the technique you use.  Your hand and foot sizes do that.  So you need to extrapolate technique based on " average", which is lame.  It sounds like you need to focus on your paddle hand technique, which relies a lot on your fingers and your thumb.  You just cannot get enough compression with your thumb when the crack is too narrow relative to your hand.  So you compensate by pressing your fingers against the opposite face of the crack.  This will begin to teach you good opposition, which will eventually unlock ringlocks and other more advanced techniques.  Once you understand these forces you can literally climb most easy cracks with just the opposition of your thumb and fingers.  I can ringlock large hands, and sometimes I do, just to vary the load and give your thumb a break.  

Most everyone overgrips in paddle jambs, but you still can get good feet.  You want to be practicing doing all of the lifting/pushing with your legs, focus on just engaging your hands to keep you from falling out backwards.  I would practice that on top rope and don't stop practicing until you can start to feel yourself tipping over backwards and just holding on barely enough to keep this from happening.  Use tape or crack gloves any time you are climbing a hard crack.  Once you develop a lot of scar tissue on your hands you will open them up easily.  It's best to avoid that if you can so you can climb harder for longer.  Tough guys who say they don't need tape are just inexperienced.  

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

ring

locks

Sail Seven · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2023 · Points: 0
Kevin Strickerwrote:

The hard part about getting advice from the internet as it relates to crack climbing is that the size of the crack does not determine the technique you use.  Your hand and foot sizes do that.  So you need to extrapolate technique based on " average", which is lame.  It sounds like you need to focus on your paddle hand technique, which relies a lot on your fingers and your thumb.  You just cannot get enough compression with your thumb when the crack is too narrow relative to your hand.  So you compensate by pressing your fingers against the opposite face of the crack.  This will begin to teach you good opposition, which will eventually unlock ringlocks and other more advanced techniques.  Once you understand these forces you can literally climb most easy cracks with just the opposition of your thumb and fingers.  I can ringlock large hands, and sometimes I do, just to vary the load and give your thumb a break.  

Most everyone overgrips in paddle jambs, but you still can get good feet.  You want to be practicing doing all of the lifting/pushing with your legs, focus on just engaging your hands to keep you from falling out backwards.  I would practice that on top rope and don't stop practicing until you can start to feel yourself tipping over backwards and just holding on barely enough to keep this from happening.  Use tape or crack gloves any time you are climbing a hard crack.  Once you develop a lot of scar tissue on your hands you will open them up easily.  It's best to avoid that if you can so you can climb harder for longer.  Tough guys who say they don't need tape are just inexperienced.  

You can ringlock large hands? Or you mean thin hands.

Im trying to imagine how ringlocking a big hands crack would be..do you mean a fist with your thumb tucked in?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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