Looking at 6ish weeks without climbing. What should I set as my training goals?

I've been doing hangboarding and lockoff training mostly before or after unstructured climbing in the gym, but now I won't be able to climb so I'm looking at kicking my training into high gear. I'm just not sure what my goals should be and if these are over or under-ambitious. (The plan is to workout 4 days a week)

Hangboarding: Currently 1RM 45LB on a 15mm edge. Thinking of aiming for 65 in 6 weeks?

Lockoffs/Pullups: I've learned that pull up training has diminishing returns for my climbing, but lockoffs and eccentric training translate better. Specifically, I'm aiming for a one handed pullup. However, most of my training for this is unstructured. I'll do a couple 6 finger (5 fingers on one hand, 1 on the other) pull ups here and there (these are hard for me), and some frenchies (these are easy for me at this point). Should I aim for more 6 finger reps?

Body tension: Planks for 30 seconds on/30 seconds off for 4 sets. This is not getting wholly easier, but it is getting more manageable, and already showing improvements in my climbing. Should I aim to lengthen the reps, or add in another exercise? I got into this routine using the Crimpd app, and its supposed to be followed up with side planks and hollow bodies, but the side planks feel incredibly easy (I'm probably doing something wrong) and I can't even begin a hollow body.

Leg strength: Goblet squats, 10 reps at 40lb. I can almost certainly increase this over 6 weeks however my gym only has dumbbells up to 50 lb (and no barbell, so no traditional squats). I would rather increase weight than reps. Not sure what exercise I should replace this with where I could start with a lower weight but feel more resistance in my legs.

Hey Michael, is the no climbing injury related or travel/ no gym related?

Chris Johnsonwrote:

Hey Michael, is the no climbing injury related or travel/ no gym related?

Had my toenails removed (had a longstanding, not climbing related issue with them).

1. Finger strength is always good. Doing a lot of hangboarding is good for this of course. The specific numbers I'm not sure if those are good goals or not, but as long as you have goals and push towards them, great.
2. Since you're already doing the finger training, keep your pullups as full hand on a bar/jug. you can vary this with wide/narrow + other variations if you want. Campus training would be awesome here too.
3. Side planks also come easily to me too. Hollow body, not so much. I've always thought body tension was more reliant on finger strength than core. With that said, a strong core can only help. You can hang from a bar and do toe-touch-to-bar/leg raises. These are really hard but probably translate the best to actual climbing.
4. I PERSONALLY would skip this and instead focus on cardio like stationary bike. You'll build leg strength, but not leg muscle, and improve "fitness" at the same time.

But that's just me. If I were in your situation, I'd do a lot of hangboarding. Some days at really high effort and other days at lower longer effort. And a lot of campusing and pullups. Then finish the day on the bike.

Scrap the planks for Toes to Bar, and windshield wipers. Also “core” so much is posterior chain so Single Leg RDLS, Hamstring Curls, Single Leg Glute Bridge and Copenhagen Planks.

Just read my post and some of the others, I'm not seeing a lot of actual goals haha. I think that makes sense though.

Have one day where you test each of your exercises, even if it's just an RPE and not to failure. Then come up with goals, which really only you can determine because you know your body the best. If goals help motivate you to train, set goals. If you can train without having specific targets in mind, I think that's just as good.